• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

18,000 WINCH MOUNT

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
So the TILT trailer I am fixin' up for my M916 is getting a winch.
I bought two of those 18,000 lb WARN Seris 18 winches
a few years ago and now I have a use for one.

I need to fab up a proper mount. I obtained a piece of 2" x 10" channel
that is about 2.5" tall and is 37.625" long. I boxed both ends of the channel.

The channel's now boxed ends will weld to the I-Beams of the trailer.
The channel's entire front will be uniwelded to the trailers front channel.
There is a 2" gap between the rear of the channel and the wood deck. I plan
on getting a piece of 2" x 2" x 1/4" wall radius'd corners trailer hitch stock
that is 37.625" long and welding it to the rear lip of the channel.

The Tan colored winch mount will be used mostly so I have some armorment
to protect the winch from my Dozer...

QUESTION, Have I done enough?
 

Attachments

Jbulach

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,560
1,967
113
Location
Sunman Indiana
If it’s not too late and your apprehensive about strength, you might consider a couple of web stiffeners underneath the channel. Adjustments.jpg Another thought is to make a receiver mount so your winch is not tied up in one location.IMG_9113.jpg My winch is only 9,000lb though, so 18,000lb I would probably go with a 2 or maybe even 3 receiver, so I could still use it on the front an back of my smaller trucks. I have receivers on everything, front and back of my trailer, all my trucks, in the front of the bed on the 5 ton, even my lawn mower. I also have the keyhole adapter that will drop over a ball hitch, or can be used to chain the winch to something. I use a set of quick connect, 2/0 x 25’ long extension cables to connect to power most of the time.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
The plan right now is to add a piece of 2" x 2" radius corner'd tailer hitch tube
along the rear edge for more support. To be stitch welded top AND bottom.

The front edge will be uniwelded to trailer's channel .

Plus the .375" mounting plate / armorment.
 

Attachments

Hammer

Well-known member
1,479
387
83
Location
Winlock, WA
How thick is that channel?
Honestly, what you have is probably just fine. I just like to build stuff way overkill and never think about it again.
Never under estimate the torsional strength of a winch, and how much it can twist/warp steel under a load.
Anything you can add to better resist the twist will always help.
I could see, with a heavy load that was drug up on the trailer with a lot of resistance to deform the bolt holes slightly.
Or it could last forever without issues. Heck if I know how hard you plan using this winch/trailer.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
How thick is that channel?
Honestly, what you have is probably just fine. I just like to build stuff way overkill and never think about it again.
Never under estimate the torsional strength of a winch, and how much it can twist/warp steel under a load.
Anything you can add to better resist the twist will always help.
I could see, with a heavy load that was drug up on the trailer with a lot of resistance to deform the bolt holes slightly.
Or it could last forever without issues. Heck if I know how hard you plan using this winch/trailer.
The 10" channel is about .262 thick.
There are 8- M12 bolts thru the bottom.
I ordered some proper oversized washers for the 8 M12's.
The rear strongback got upgraded to 2.5" x .25" square tube...
All welds, top and bottom are to be uniwelded.
Darn thing is heavy Ha~!
Here is the bottom of the mounting plate all welded up...
My welder is a Miller "Vintage" machine w/ a 60/40 duty
cycle so basically 6 minutes welding then 4 minutes resting.
It is really less than that, it starts to peter out if I do not let
it relax.
 

Attachments

Hammer

Well-known member
1,479
387
83
Location
Winlock, WA
I think it really boils down to how you plan on using it.
If it were me, I would add in some heavy C Channel under the bolt holes to box it in and run the bolts all the way through.
I have stretched out bolt holes on winch plates on some of my trailers before with a 9,000 lb winch. I have also twisted the front rail in a mount that is similar to what you have.
But I have also done stuff I really shouldn't have with it. Doing dead drags onto a trailer is tough, especially up ramps, etc.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
I think it really boils down to how you plan on using it.
If it were me, I would add in some heavy C Channel under the bolt holes to box it in and run the bolts all the way through.
I have stretched out bolt holes on winch plates on some of my trailers before with a 9,000 lb winch. I have also twisted the front rail in a mount that is similar to what you have.
But I have also done stuff I really shouldn't have with it. Doing dead drags onto a trailer is tough, especially up ramps, etc.
That's not a bad idea.... Maybe have one piece waterjet cut from .375 or .5 steel
like this and just get longer Grade 8 bolts and add undeneath...
 

Attachments

Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks