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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

Sgt Jiggins

Potato Peeler
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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When you say 'cable' do you really mean cable?
Yea, you're right, it's not a cable. You might be able to unmangle it (I was fortunate). But as others have said, that's apparently a weak point. I experienced what you describe when I first got mine. After some attention, it now works properly. Good luck in there.
 

peakbagger

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northern nh
Yea, you're right, it's not a cable. You might be able to unmangle it (I was fortunate). But as others have said, that's apparently a weak point. I experienced what you describe when I first got mine. After some attention, it now works properly. Good luck in there.
Throttle linkage issues are pretty much to be expected. Its a very complex system and unless you understand what is going on its very easy to do more harm than good. There also are some parts that wear out and if misadjusted parts can bend. Remove the engine cover and find where the throttle linkage road that goes from one side of the engine to other and spray your favorite penetrating lubricant on the rod where it goes through the block. Make sure its not binding. The other problem spot is the plate with the splined shaft that goes through the firewall and runs through accelerator pedal. That rod goes through a nylon bushing. If the bushing is worn out or that plate is bent it can mess up the linkage. The accelerator is not directly attached to the rest of the linkage. If the cab is lifted it can not be attached as otherwise it would cause problems. So it moves a roller that runs on a curved plate that is attached to the rest of the linkage. If the shaft is bent or the bushing is worn out, the relationship between the roller and the curved plate changes and if someone doesnt notice that they can end up adjusting other things that do not need adjusting (been there done that). if the rod that drives the hand throttle is bent or the nylon bushing is missing than the hand throttle can bind up the rest of the linkage.

I believe Expedition Imports stocks the bushing and the throttle shaft. I think the hand throttle rod will need to be ordered from Mercedes. Its not that complex if you have a source of metric rod and a die to match the threads
 

glcaines

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The rod that goes through the engine was really bound up with rust. I've been spraying white lithium grease and mostly freed it up. I disconnected the linkage from that rod on the drivers side. I can now shut the engine off by manually moving the linkage to the injector pump to the rear. One thing I noticed is that when I pull the linkage to the rear and shut the engine down, the plate on the drivers side of the shaft through the engine is virtually pointed to the rear of the SEE. This means that when the linkage is hooked up, there is no way to increase the throttle to the run position because the linkage is pulling directly against the shaft, which can't rotate. Someone has really screwed up the linkage. Once I get the new rod from EI, I'll adjust everything.
 

peakbagger

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northern nh
The rod that goes through the engine was really bound up with rust. I've been spraying white lithium grease and mostly freed it up. I disconnected the linkage from that rod on the drivers side. I can now shut the engine off by manually moving the linkage to the injector pump to the rear. One thing I noticed is that when I pull the linkage to the rear and shut the engine down, the plate on the drivers side of the shaft through the engine is virtually pointed to the rear of the SEE. This means that when the linkage is hooked up, there is no way to increase the throttle to the run position because the linkage is pulling directly against the shaft, which can't rotate. Someone has really screwed up the linkage. Once I get the new rod from EI, I'll adjust everything.
Just part of the potential dues for buying a 25 year old vehicle that has sat for long periods of time. The first SEE i looked at was a state vehicle that had been transferred from the Fed, the throttle linkage was bound up and parts were disconnected. The seller got it started and like a good seller his response just a minor adjustment. It was obvious that someone did not understand what was going on and made a mess of it.

BTW, some but not all of the ball and sockets may have a safety pin holding them together. They are PITA to remove and I have been unsuccessful in getting them back on. The linkage still will go back together without them but on occasion it could come apart again when you least expect it. My hope is that someday if and when I have the cab up I will replace them.
 

glcaines

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Edit: I was having problems with the swing pedals on my backhoe. I worked out the problem and everything mostly now works like it should with the swing pedals. I have also fixed the problem with my left stabilizer. I'm slowly working through issues.
 
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glcaines

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I now have all of the hydraulics working on my SEE. All of the controls move smoothly, including the swing pedals. I removed all of the control rods and cleaned all rust off and repainted them. I greased everything thoroughly before re-installation. I also dismantled the control tower and removed all of the parts. Again, I painted everything. I installed new grease zerks and greased everything. However, I can't move the boom back far enough for the boom lock to engage. If I increase the engine RPM substantially and move the boom back as fast as possible, the lock will come within about two inches of engaging. Any suggestions?
 

The FLU farm

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Yes. Slow the rpm down, to about 800 or so, then move the boom somewhat slowly towards you. When it gets close, reverse the lever.
It's an over center design, which is why you have to do it "in reverse" to get it to unlatch in the first place.

It may be a bit of slam and bang until you get the hang of it. Then it can be latched very smoothly.
 

peakbagger

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northern nh
Yes. Slow the rpm down, to about 800 or so, then move the boom somewhat slowly towards you. When it gets close, reverse the lever.
It's an over center design, which is why you have to do it "in reverse" to get it to unlatch in the first place.

It may be a bit of slam and bang until you get the hang of it. Then it can be latched very smoothly.
Its rite of passage for a SEE. Initially it feels totally foreign and definitely is not intuitive. Obviously you do not want to have the SEE facing uphill and facing it downhill helps. Of course if you just cant get it, you can rotate the boom and use the outrigger to push it in place. Once you do get it practice a bit to do it again. It might be one out of five the first time but its happens more often with practice/ I must admit I am still in the 3 to 4 out of five stage.
 

The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
It might be one out of five the first time but its happens more often with practice/ I must admit I am still in the 3 to 4 out of five stage.
That could be because you're running high rpms. Once I learned to do the digging at 1,100 to 1,500 (unless full force is necessary), operation in general got much smoother.
As mentioned, when stowing it I like to run 800, maybe 1,000 tops. My goal these days is an inaudible latching, and four out of five I'm quite close.
 

glcaines

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Hiawassee, Georgia
I tried it at a very low idle as well as higher RPM. No go, but then I didn't know the trick of reversing the control. I just found a video on You Tube about the same issue on a CASE 580K backhoe.
It shows the guy reversing the control at the last minute to latch the lock, although the lock is a different design. I went out to try it after I saw the responses to my post. It had just finished raining and the mosquitos were vicious. I came back in the house and will try again tomorrow. I did notice one thing, however. A bird got inside the cab somehow and splashed white sh** all over the seats and engine. I have the doghouse removed so the bird must have gotten in that way.
 
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Speedwoble

Well-known member
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New Holland, PA
I tried it at a very low idle as well as higher RPM. No go, but then I didn't know the trick of reversing the control. I just found a video on You Tube about the same issue on a CASE 580K backhoe.
It shows the guy reversing the control at the last minute to latch the lock, although the lock is a different design. I went out to try it after I saw the responses to my post. It had just finished raining and the mosquitos were vicious. I came back in the house and will try again tomorrow. I did notice one thing, however. A bird got inside the cab somehow and splashed white sh** all over the seats and engine. I have the doghouse removed so the bird must have gotten in that way.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Hiawassee, Georgia
The hydraulic drill is new and unused. Still has the tag attached, but doesn't have the quick couplers. Has plastic protectors on the ends of the hoses. I just ordered a set of couplers on Ebay.
 

mberetta

Member
39
1
8
Location
Utah
I've been searching the TM's and the forum. Unsuccessfully. Does anyone have an opinion (or reference) on the best way to go about raising the backhoe from the stowed position so that I can remove the FOPS and tilt the cab? The SEE is a non-runner, STILL. Replacing the injection pump. Injection pump has multiple failures verified. I have seen the posts about taking the pump out through the wheel well. I'll pass. I have several additional things I want to do and check while tilted.

Not the best option, but I thought that theoretically I should be able to crank the starter and build up some pressure with that. Very hard on the starter though. It will also fire up and run for a moment on ether through the air intake, but I've read that could potentially cause damage as well. Any other ideas. Preferably ones with less expensive consequences.
 
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Speedwoble

Well-known member
606
296
63
Location
New Holland, PA
I've been searching the TM's and the forum. Unsuccessfully. Does anyone have an opinion (or reference) on the best way to go about raising the backhoe from the stowed position so that I can remove the FOPS and tilt the cab? The SEE is a non-runner, STILL. Replacing the injection pump. Injection pump has multiple failures verified. I have seen the posts about taking the pump out through the wheel well. I'll pass. I have several additional things I want to do and check while tilted.

Not the best option, but I thought that theoretically I should be able to crank the starter and build up some pressure with that. Very hard on the starter though. Any other ideas. Preferably ones with less expensive consequences.
Use a come along or winch to a high point on a tree. Soldier A pulls the level to the implement Raise position while Soldier B winches. Go slowly because of the restriction in the circuit. The advantage of this over cracking the lines is you are not introducing air into the system, so by releasing the lever, it will hold in place. Of course if you loosened the lines, you could remove and drill out the restrictor.

{edit to change lever position 8-26-2020}
 
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mberetta

Member
39
1
8
Location
Utah
Use a come along or winch to a high point on a tree. Soldier A pulls the level to the implement lower position while Soldier B winches. Go slowly because of the restriction in the circuit. The advantage of this over cracking the lines is you are not introducing air into the system, so by releasing the lever, it will hold in place. Of course if you loosened the lines, you could remove and drill out the restrictor.
There is a serious lack of trees in my part of the desert. I do have some elm, but they are so weak. I'm not sure they will work. Could I use a hi-lift somewhere instead? Like from the ROPS?

I do have a neighbor (a mile away) with a telehandler. I guess I could see if he is willing to help out.
 
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