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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

Salty dog

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Pulled the wiper arms so I could remove the cowl, thirty five years of crap was cleaned up
 

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Keith_J

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Schertz TX
Ordered a VDO 333 969 tach. Pricey but I got my uncle Jeff's discount. An employee perk, along with being able to handle the item before I buy.
A 2.0625 inch diameter 4k max tach which neatly runs off any alternator W signal from 400 to 1300 Hz. The port side alternator on a CUCV already has the wire leading up underneath the dash.
$113 minus my discount.
 

Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
Odometer passed 36,000 miles so it was time to change the oil again. While I was under there I noticed a loose bolt behind the filter. I crawled out and got a wrench and a light, but when I got back underneath I realized it wasn't just loose, but the threaded portion of the hole was broken away.

It's the fastener directly aft of the oil filter on the transmission bell housing... cover? Not sure how structurally necessary it is.
 

Keith_J

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Installed a new Spectra brand heater core. These have a few quirks since they don't seal to the air flow. Using HVAC rated aluminium tape and high temperature urethane weather seal, I got it done.
You need to remove the inner frame too, two more screws to remove. Then test fit and see where it leaks. Seal the corners with the aluminium tape, then the 1/4" urethane around the edges.

Now no more ethylene glycol fog. Hotter than before. This means no more cold fronts this spring. I do have a remote control coolant control valve, meaning less heat in the cab during the summer but still able to turn it on from inside. Just a momentary switch in the cab, with indicating lights.

I also installed a coolant filter. With the new heater core, I will need to clean the filter. It runs parallel to the heater as it is a bypass style. With the flow to the heater core blocked with the valve, it has maximum flow.
Coolant filtration has only been a recent application due to EGR coolers putting high heat loads into coolant. The IDI diesel should see benefit as it too puts a high heat load into coolant. I'm still going to do annual coolant changes.20210402_085517.jpg20210402_085517.jpg20210402_084745.jpg
 

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Keith_J

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Schertz TX
Making addition to the dash bracket originally for the radio. Currently it has the rear view camera and the combination volt/amp/power/energy meter. I installed a heater control valve on the hot coolant going to the heater core. Just a 12 volt motorized ball valve, stainless and Teflon, rated for 260 °F. Used a double pole double throw momentary switch with indicator lights, it takes 5 seconds from open to closed so heat is adjustable. So I am mounting the switch below the meter. Made a box from 1/4" plywood, then coated with epoxy and painted flat black to match boxes for the other two items on the center info panel.0506192000.jpg
 

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Salty dog

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Spring, Texas
Earlier in this discussion I said I found a old 5.56 blank round when I was moving the back seat. The primer had signs that it had been fired but just in case I soaked the round in penetrating oil for a few days. I than drilled it and a bit of time with some brasso I cleaned it up.
 

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LT67

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Bowdon, GA
Gen 1 alternator rebuilt and reinstalled... charging system is back to normal. Now the blower motor stopped working lol
 

Keith_J

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Schertz TX
Tach installed and working. For switched power tap, I used the PTO governor power lead as it is close, switched and fused. The alternator signal is off the glow plug module, brown wire, terminal A.

Then I finally installed the heater core valve controller, a DPDT switch with end point illumination lights. The switch is momentary, 4 seconds from full open to full closed. This allows full bypass during the summer months so no heat in the cab. Full heat is only 4 seconds away, the red side of the switch has nubs so no eyesight needed. The lights are dark between endpoints and easily shut off for tactical purposes. Just need the same on the digital volt/amp meter above.20210409_113529.jpg20210409_113522.jpg
 
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Salty dog

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Location
Spring, Texas
Did the LMC headlight relay install, went very smooth I changed the connections on the grounds so they would fit the factory ground better. The headlights are considerably brighter and now removed from the overloaded fuse that was vexing me earlier. I have been looking into the LED units but still have not decided.
 

usabamaman

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Anywhere, Alabama
Did the LMC headlight relay install, went very smooth I changed the connections on the grounds so they would fit the factory ground better. The headlights are considerably brighter and now removed from the overloaded fuse that was vexing me earlier. I have been looking into the LED units but still have not decided.
I was thinking about using a similar relay install for the problem of the slow wiper blades. Have you heard of anyone doing this or any other way of speeding up the blades?
 

usabamaman

Member
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Location
Anywhere, Alabama
Didn't do much other than pay for the last two steps but finally got the M1009 back from the body shop for the exterior liner, then to the mech shop for the lift kit and 33's. Now I'm afraid the TH-400 is on it's last legs. It never ends. I've started work on refurbishing bumpers and I'm welding on that winch mount that winch mount that is sold on Ebay. Completely unrelated - anyone know of a source for plasma cut bridge plate numbers? I have the plate but not the other pieces. If I had a template I'd probably plasma cut then grind/finish my own. View attachment 826600

Also, I know that door line doesn't quite match up. I just replaced the pins and both doors close easily now but I can't see how that body seam ever matched without shims. I may shim it.

Oh, when I was welding in the new rockers I added those side steps. I reinforced the inner rocker with another sheet of 18ga steel then through-drilled it and welded in 1/4 bolts to mount the steps.

If you get the door fitted too precisely, It won't look factory.
 

Keith_J

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I have not heard of anything for the wiper assembly
Slow wipers are usually a sign of mechanism alignment or the motor brushes going out. Check motor amperage, should be under 10 amperes. If too high, check alignment. If much lower, brushes are going out.

If you don't have a DC clamp meter, measure voltage at the motor with engine running, anything more than a 2 volt drop from the battery voltage is too much draw.
 

german m1008

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Rhein-Main Area, Germany
I was thinking about using a similar relay install for the problem of the slow wiper blades. Have you heard of anyone doing this or any other way of speeding up the blades?
if you mean that the windshield wipers are slow at the beginning and after a short time they get faster .......... that comes from the three capacitors......... they dry out over time and need a moment to build up the full tension
D920C805-2C73-4878-B8E2-12974F4F9EED.jpeg
 

Keith_J

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113
Location
Schertz TX
if you mean that the windshield wipers are slow at the beginning and after a short time they get faster .......... that comes from the three capacitors......... they dry out over time and need a moment to build up the full tension
View attachment 830925
The capacitors are radio frequency noise filters to shunt high frequency to ground. They should have no DC resistance and only react to 10 kHz and above. But if the dielectric breaks down, they could bleed DC to ground. Simple DC resistance to ground with wiper motor off to verify.
There are 3 for the 3 speeds. Speed control through a resistor pair.
 
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