Towing an M1009 Blazer

Hi everyone.

This may be obvious to everyone but me so I'm going to ask. Ridicule is acceptable because I really should know this.

I'm going to retrieve a CUCV Blazer about 4 hours from my house by interstate. The easiest form of transport is a tow dolly. If I tow the truck with the back wheels down, and put the transfer case in Neutral, does that disconnect all the wheels from the transmission, like a Jeep, or will it still try to turn the transmission and cook it?

I'm not a fan of a tow dolly, but I've used one quite a few times and I won't be in any hurry. My biggest concern, besides the transmission, is the tires. There won't be as much weight on them, I think, and they won't have a load from the engine, so maybe they won't get worked as hard. Eh, I'll have two spares...

Thanks everyone.

I've always pulled the drive shaft...

4 bolts to remove the U joints (which probably need replacing anyway) and it's no longer a concern.

Hi slantflat , I recently did the same thing but used a flat trailer. what condition are the tires in? If the tires look like they are dry and cracking, I would be cautious. What will you be using to tow it?

I'll be towing with an 02 Silverado 2500HD. The big thing is what to put the truck on. As I sit here waiting for people to reply not to use the tow dolly, I've decided I'm not going to use the tow dolly and go push something off one of my trailers and just use a trailer. It will be a big hassle but I think it will go a lot better tomorrow if the whole truck is off the ground.

The bit about the transfer case would still be nice to know.

Thanks for responding you guys.

I think you'll be happier putting it on a flat trailer. A friend of mine volunteered his 7.3 turbo diesel rig to tow mine. Keep in mind the trailer weight as well as the truck you'll be loading.

Download the applicable TM which is available on this site and read the section on towing procedure which should answer your questions. The military would normally flat tow a disabled vehicle.

I advocate flat towing or trailering it.

Trailering is the preferred option if tires or bearings are suspect.

If flat towing, pull the driveshafts- it's quick and easy and removes another source of badness.

Well thanks everyone. Truck is sold I don't even have to worry about it now.

But the question was never answered. I have time to look it up in the TM now.

To answer the question. Yes, you can put the transfer case in neutral to flat tow. The TM says no more than 50 mph for 50 miles.

Most everyone answered with the practical real world answer of trailer or pull the drive shaft because we all know someone who did it by the book. That had the not easy to secure in n ultralight transfer case shifter pop out of neutral from a bump and cause issues. If you are going to flat tow, which I have done for hundreds of miles, with the drive shaft connected. Put the transfer case and transmission in neutral, keep the speed down and check every 30 miles or so. Engine idling with transmission and transfer case would be the next best course. With pulling the drive shaft the best for flat towing.

Thanks Barrman. And everyone. I agree it's best not to flat tow or use a dolly, but this was going to be a matter of convenience and time saving. This truck was in Charlotte, so if anyone here is who bought it, looks like you got a good one.

I'm not super familiar with the m1009, but the civilian version of the K5's in that vintage had a slip-yoke transfer case. If you pull the driveshaft, be prepared to have the fluid come out.

They do make a tailgate plug to take its place, but I believe it's more for in the shop vs down the road.

Or you could pull the driveshaft loose frome the axle, leaving it stuck in the transfer case, and secure it up to the bottom of the truck.

eric67camino said:

I'm not super familiar with the m1009, but the civilian version of the K5's in that vintage had a slip-yoke transfer case. If you pull the driveshaft, be prepared to have the fluid come out.

They do make a tailgate plug to take its place, but I believe it's more for in the shop vs down the road.

Or you could pull the driveshaft loose frome the axle, leaving it stuck in the transfer case, and secure it up to the bottom of the truck.

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Tying the shaft up is what I've always done. The front shaft stays in and the hubs get UNLOCKED. IIRC if you flat tow farther then 50 or so a bearing in the T-case starts to lose lubrication and burns up. In normal driving it receives oil from being driven by the input shaft. I hope I said that right!

slantflat said:

Thanks Barrman. And everyone. I agree it's best not to flat tow or use a dolly, but this was going to be a matter of convenience and time saving. This truck was in Charlotte, so if anyone here is who bought it, looks like you got a good one.

Click to expand...

oops, my bad. if it helps, i didn't have to tow it home, just kept it at 55. it has some work to be done, but my 10 year old wanted a project so he got one with his savings and summer dog walking money. its a different vintage than what i worked on in the 90th LRS but it looks like a decent start. got 5 years to shore up the rust, replace a bunch of seals, and i guess add some tunes.