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Maaaaaan!! I can’t win. I’m sending that s*#t back!! I have an old cheap one I’ll see if it reads Amps.
Go read my edits in my previous post.Maaaaaan!! I can’t win. I’m sending that s*#t back!! I have an old cheap one I’ll see if it reads Amps.
I may just buy the next model Up of the Fluke.
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I’ll buy that much cheaper one you recommendedGo read my edits in my previous post.
Hmm, so what’s the best Multimeter to purchase that does whatever I’ll need for my vehicles? I’d prefer not to get something too high in price and an overkill device.
I think he is telling you to keep your multimeter and make a resistor out of a foot of 10 AWG copper wire. The cost is however much 1 foot of 10 AWG copper wire is, which is 47 cents at Home Depot. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwi...Bare-Copper-Grounding-Wire-10626090/204725219 (you may want to bribe the guy with an extra .02 cents for 1/2 inch more). Just ask if he's interested in your 2 cents. It's code for a bribe.
Ohh no! Please no Math!I think he is telling you to keep your multimeter and make a resistor out of a foot of 10 AWG copper wire. The cost is however much 1 foot of 10 AWG copper wire is, which is 47 cents at Home Depot. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwi...Bare-Copper-Grounding-Wire-10626090/204725219 (you may want to bribe the guy with an extra .02 cents for 1/2 inch more). Just ask if he's interested in your 2 cents. It's code for a bribe.
Then you can just take a measurement in volts off each end of the wire that is added to the circuit in to get the amperage using the formula volts = current * resistance. With a foot long piece of 10AWG wire as a resistor the amps will ultimately equal the voltage (in millivolts), and you don’t need anything but that copper wire which if it were me I’d run through a piece of pvc and have the ends exposed through some end caps and my distance of one foot marked for the contact points.
It’s a bit of math but you don’t have to worry about burning up a multimeter. I like it.
I still think your parasitic draw wont be more than 10 amps but it’s safer to use the shunt.
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The junction is the block where the negative cables all attach on the firewall.I will Read this for sure. Thank you!
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@Curtisje Ahhh! I know what you mean. I call those the Positive and Negative Buss Bars.
Sounds like corrosion or dirt between the cable end and steel body or engine.
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The Connections are looking clean! I double checked it all when I repaired that frayed wire.
Troubleshooting electrical issues without the grounds being verified good is like troubleshooting a fuel system issue without checking the filter first. Bare metal on bare metal, then go from there! Good luck it’s a pain.Sounds like corrosion or dirt between the cable end and steel body or engine.
Troubleshooting electrical problems without tracing an verifying sat grounds is like troubleshooting a fuel problem without changing the filter. I would recommend starting from square one. The harnesses are not that complex.
Hey there, I don't know if you threw out the other alternator or not, but I would.open it up and make sure the regulator inside the alt is the correct 14v or the wrong 12v, I just went through this mess, had to buy a new alt before I noticed the 27si rebuild kit I purchased sent me the wrong voltage regulator.I feel like I’m just running around in circles here with my M1009!
When I picked up my vehicle, to fix an oil leak, the mechanic said he had to charge the two batteries overnight. All because it won’t start. I decided to test the batteries today and here’s what I got:
Off
Front 12.53
Rear 12.53
Off After a Short Drive & One Restart
Front 13
Rear 12.76
Running
Front 14.30
Rear 13.07
Running After a Short Drive & One Start
Front 14.40
Rear 12.80
The Rear Battery seems to be low. The Voltage Meter looks Low as well.
Note: The mechanic recharged the batteries and I had him Replace the Passengers Side Alternator. Alternator is from Hillbilly Wizard. The other alternator, Drivers side, was replaced just last year as well.
Today I also went around and made sure no cables or plugs were undone or loose on the Alternator and each battery. Both batteries were installed Dec. 2020. The Gen 1 & 2 Bulbsin the dash are turning on as well. I think the Alt belt is tight enough?
So what could be going on now?
Thank you for any help.
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I finally added a New Ground Chassis today, via 6 Gauge Cable. I used an existing hole and bolt used for grounding the headlights. I cleaned up the area as well. I hit it with a small steel brush on my Dremel. It was filthy!!
@SquibblyI finally added a New Ground Chassis today, via 6 Gauge Cable. I used an existing hole and bolt used for grounding the headlights. I cleaned up the area as well. I hit it with a small steel brush on my Dremel. It was filthy!!
I still need to Test for any Parasites. That’s for another day!
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It's an open circuit until you plug the lighter in, so no, a lighter wouldn't not generally draw power in that state.
in the dash are turning on as well. I think the Alt belt is tight enough?