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Perhaps PM him and ask him to look at this thread and he may have more to offer.
I'm thinking your controller card is bad from the way you used to "jump it" to the 24V +, to the blue wire(ground).
I guess test the temp sensor next.
There is no way to test the GP controller card(ourselves).
Member Antennaclimber can test them, I think. He also makes new cards and sells them on the site in the classifieds.
Ok, without removing any wires.
Put the meter to DC volts and place the black lead to a clean ground. You can use the engine, or master cylinder or the front battery negative terminal.
With the red lead, touch the top post (big red wire), you should see 24 volts. (key on or off)
Next, touch...
And for now, until you fix it, to start it, simply use a jumper wire from the stud with the blue wire, and jump to ground. That should get the relay to function, with the key on.
No need to remove wires to do this.
Also, have a look at your controller card.
Pull it out an look for anything that looks wrong, like an obvious burned area.
Put it back in if it looks good.
Ok.
So, you have been feeding the relay 24 volts the way you always have done it.
Tonight I wanted you to jump between the stud with the blue wire, to ground(no need to remove any wires to do this).
Anyway, you indeed do have the wrong relay so that needs to be changed.
Then we can see what...
I'm confused what you said you did.
You jumped the blue wire to the top post? Are you saying you jumped it to the large red wire? That is not what you do.
Do you have a digital multi meter, and know how to use it?
Just to confirm, the relay is/needs to be a 12 volt relay. With isolated...
I would try jumping the blue wire to ground with the key on.
If the relay thunks, and your glow plugs are not working(getting 24-12 volts) then the relay is bad(bad contacts).
If it does not thunk, well that's just a sound, but it might lead to the card/system is not functioning.
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