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I can’t speak for the 804A but my 804B has the same exact pump for primary and aux. Primary is located just behind the water separator filter, aux is mounted behind the fuel fill hole. They’re both a simple Inline Electric Airtex E1074. That specific model doesn’t get manufactured anymore...

Figured it out! Turns out these sender units are pretty flakey in terms of quality control, or maybe you're just supposed to tune it before installing it. Anyway, the lower of the two floats was allowed to come up too high, thus closing the circuit and tripping the "No Fuel" light. It was a...

Hey all, Posting this as a live demonstration of the low fuel / aux pump float sender on a MEP-804B. To sum it up, my sender keeps causing the panel to indicate “No Fuel” and shut the generator off. This can be temporarily field rectified by just yanking the plug from the sender if needed. My...

Seems I do have these pieces as well

I’m working on an 1151 at the moment but I haven’t actually checked those corners, are they usually stripped out and leak? Looks like something you can remedy with some sheet metal, rivets, and silicone though Got me thinking so I’ll take a look tomorrow heh

That looks fantastic, how many coats do you plan on putting on the doors? Read somewhere that the fiberglass absorbs some point and slightly more coating on the doors may be better? Not sure how true it is. I’m planning on painting the whole truck with green 383 Rapco and then coming back with...

They weren't specifically dirty but I did blow them out with some contact cleaner and air, I'll know more once I swap my original TCM back in after a few days. Definitely a riddle of sorts. In any case, I can certainly relate, sometimes jumping 2 steps ahead just happens 😂

All my continuity test results were the exact same across 3 trucks, so I figured it's probably not a connector / wiring issue. I just made sure the contacts were clean when I put it back together with the spare TCM for testing, and it seems to operating perfectly thus far.

I wasn't seeing the results I was quite expecting from the troubleshooting flowchart, so I checked 2 other trucks to verify my sanity and the results were the same with the multimeter. At this point, I figured I'd start with the easy stuff and just swap the TCM to see if the issues follow it or...

I’ve found that continuity between the R and S pins on the J1 connector is spotty. If I wiggle the cable I get a few beeps from the multimeter. Going to open up the connector sleeve and see what’s up. I’m hoping it’s a flaky wire and I don’t actually have to drop the pan now heh Yea I figure...

I second this, only use nylon lock nuts unless you want things falling apart from how much these trucks shake lol

Seems I now have a plan of action. I yanked a TCC out of parts truck that had the transmission pan missing to see what it looks like and what I'm dealing with. Here's a video of the one I yanked out of the dead parts truck, per the manual it looks like it's perfect (10-14 ohms resistance)...

Alrighty was able to get my codes using the beep mode on a multimeter hooked up to where the light previously was. It's beeping 39 and 68, time to dig into remediation procedures: 39: TCC Stuck "OFF" 68: Transmission Component Slipping Code 39 clears when power cycling the truck, which exactly...

Well I found part of my problem, the transmission status light is toast. Was trying to read fault codes but it wasn’t even displaying code 12.

I suppose it's also possible that the TCC brake switch could be intermittent? Reading through this document to cover all my bases before poking it with a stick: https://gear-report.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Supplement_7_4L80E-Transmission_Troubleshooting.pdf

Just an update on this situation, haven’t had a chance to troubleshoot this further but about to do so now that I’ve got a lot of other things out of the way. As it stands, my A2 truck with the 4L80E acts as such: - Any time I go drive, it’ll start out fine, TCC lockup works fine, but about...

Happy to help, if anyone wants any specific pictures of how I did something lemme know :P

Yep I went to ace hardware and got a ton of hardware for it all, get a bunch of assorted sizes of bolts and washers to make life easier. Main size I used for 1/4” bolts for the hinge mounts to the A and B pillars. 5/16 for the B pillar striker, and 1/4 for the C pillar strikers

I had the same opinion at first but every humvee is so different that it does actually make sense to have to drill them out yourself. If not, would be a pain to line everything up I’d think. Attached a few photos of my striker setup, lemme know if you’ve got any questions, I provided some...

Yep same thing here, push on the door with the opposite hand when you pull on the paddle latch. Had a buddy bend my front right passenger paddle latch pivot points due to this, that being said, west Kentucky is shipping me a new latch free of charge. Good service but product could be a bit...