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Argh, the saga continues… I go to start the truck tonight and I hear a horrible high rpm grinding. I go to turn the crankshaft manually with a wrench, and I realize it’s not smooth and binding. Great.. feels like the bendix sticking on the flexplate. I remove the inspection cover and what do...

See I’m used to my deuce where it’s all a single circuit, so that was definitely interesting to see with the divided reservoir. It’s funny, I couldn’t tell you anything about my daily driver because I never touch it, but at this point I’ll rattle off quite a bit of info about my “actual” trucks 🤣

On another note, further progress has been made: - Brakes bled with 2 bottles of fresh fluid. Fairly uneventful and as you’d expect a bleed to go. Only thing of note is that I learned the fluid reservoir is split. The front half is fluid for the rear brakes, the rear half is fluid for the front...

Nope I think you understand it just fine, good idea! Doing the rears on my friend’s truck soon and will try this instead of the whole other ordeal hehe

I ordered some stuff off the Amazon, will be bleeding it later today hopefully. I’ve got a vacuum bleeder so we’ll see how quickly (or not) this process goes lol.

Yippee, last hub done and good to go. Next step is doing a brake bleed to flush out any old gunk or water. I checked my brake fluid, it’s most certainly dot5. I sampled some and mixed it with water, they repelled each other. For anyone reading this that hasn’t dealt with military brakes...

Replaced one of the rear spindle lock nuts today and realized it was a bit more of a pickle than the front ones. I realized this as soon as I saw that the steering arm cover connection only pivots up and down, so I couldn’t get the cover out of the way enough to fit a socket on the spindle...

I've had some weird electrical gremlins come out of nowhere as well. I've got one of those grounding harnesses sitting ready to install, not sure if it'll fix anything but the more ground the merrier in my opinion. A weird example was my horn, all I had to do to make it work again is loosen the...

Based on what I’ve found, tachs are addons for only certain trucks and may be in a different TM. My friend’s m1123 truck came with one but my m1043a2 didn’t. Rough pricing indicated that it’s about $1k in parts to add a tach on if it didn’t come with one. I think the reason they are put in is...

I considered turning the fuel up in mine but figured it doesn’t really need extra power for my needs. I put my new pump back in slightly advanced just like the old one was, am now wondering if there’s any real good purpose to doing so or if I should just re-adjust to dead center the timing...

I can’t recall if I read this in this thread or not, did you adjust your pump timing after it was installed and injector lines hooked up? If so, was it hard to do so with all the hard lines holding the pump? I could be imagining things so ignore me if so heh

Heh that’s awesome, would love to find some sand to float around on. Only suburban roads around here. p.s. what’re you using to tie down those 3916s?

Yep I’ll be undergoing that procedure sometime soon, will see if it goes any different for me. Need to find the best way to drain it first heh

Oh and another note based on my truck at least, power steering was difficult-ish to move past a certain range while stopped until after my tires were properly inflated. Not sure how it should be but that’s how my truck was. While at proper pressure and driving, wheel can be moved with barely any...

I’ve been standardizing my truck on Valvoline Max Life ATF. It’s technically dex VI which is backwards compatible with dex III. I did some searching around to make sure it’d be fine and will be draining / filling the power steering system sometime soon, once I figure out the best way to do it...

Found a small hill to test these off-road capabilities, climbed it effortlessly lol The tailgate also makes a great prep table for a cookout, happy Labor Day weekend all!

10 starts later and no issues. I guess that solves that mystery. In any case the voltage across the positive/negative leads on the starter drops to around ~22 while cranking, which seems like an appropriate drop for such a high current device, but it’s engaging and turning without any issues...

Good news!!!! I don’t know whether I should be excited or bothered LOL I said screw it and stole the start switch off my friend’s truck. It now started flawlessly!! Ok so here is my theory: I set the old switch to start-> it cranks like garbage. Ok so like I previously said I might’ve been...

Could it possibly be the start switch? Mine doesn’t traverse all the way and I’m still waiting on Kascar’s batch of new ones to come in. I figured it likely wasn’t the issue since it’s only responsible for the solenoid, unless it’s causing hard to detect intermittent engagement? The only reason...

It is in fact the same sound / symptom. I did just check the voltage drop from positive battery to positive starter lead, 0.00 Meanwhile positive battery to negative starter yields high 25v as expected. The only variable that I changed recently was my repair of the thick cable coming from the...