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Alright I tried it both electrically and manually through the big access hole on the side of the solenoid. It seems to kick out very strong and fine, I did notice that the shaft itself and the collar on it seems to move too, not sure if it’s normal. Video of electric check: Video of manual...

So I’ve never heard of this site but this is the bracket you want: https://hummerh1parts.com/12469281.html Could try to cross-google the part numbers. Could also call Kascar in the morning and check with Ron or Mike

Got it out with the help of a jack stand, I now know what everyone means by the J style bracket, that made it pretty decent to do. Contemplating whether I should start taking the bendix facing side apart to check for obvious issues or just have a shop deal with it. All the teeth look fine at...

Sounds like I'll be attempting to yank the starter out today, will take it apart and see what I can find. That video regarding the bendix was pretty informative, will compare what I'm seeing on mine as well.

Luckily I’ve got another truck I can compare it to, will take the cover off that one tomorrow and see if I notice any vast differences. At least I’m armed with enough information to do more investigation now heh @osteo16 I’m on the edge about taking it apart myself, depends on how I’m feeling...

So I did consider the flexplate possibly being bent. I rotated the crankshaft over one revolution by hand, and I saw no variances in its position. That cable I repaired goes to the starter itself, but I don’t know where it originates from yet. What I do know is that when testing it, it has...

It does in fact have a shim if I’m correct. The little triangle piece sticking out in this photo. So the bendix should fully engage across the entire width of the flexplate, right?

Hey all, I went to start my M1043A2 today, and the moment I was sort-of expecting finally came. A few weeks ago, the starter was engaged briefly while the engine was running, of course causing it to grind on the flexplate. After that, I started having rough starts where it feels that the...

Got started on installing the Bluehummer spindle lock nuts yesterday. Finished the front right hub, was pretty painless and smooth. Only real problem is that I dropped my drain plug and the magnet separated from it. I wasn't sure if they were glued on or just held magnetically. I re-installed...

Just turned it up a little bit by ear, I’m betting the sound during winter starts is going to be fun as well.

Hah, now I’m 100% sure that was it. I tried unplugging the cold advance from the pump with that injector disconnected, but was discouraged when the sound remained the same. I put it all back together, torqued the injector and line back in, and decided to try unplugging the cold advance once...

So theoretically speaking, if I disconnect the cold advance from the pump itself, should it sound different?

Yea I had that line cracked specifically since I suspected an issue with that injector, so the rough idle was expected. It still clacks with that line connected, and the cold advance was part of my theory, but I'm missing a few pieces of information to make sense of it. I thought the cold...

So it looks like I'm re-visiting this thread with a new sound I'm hearing. I've recently swapped my injection pump - more details in this thread: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/govplanet-humvee-arrival-and-inspection.209997/page-4 Once I swapped the pump, the truck started up and acted...

Yippee, engine is all back together and running! 2 things: - In which position does the cold advance fail if the sensor is unplugged? I finally plugged mine back in since the cables were chewed up when I got it. Seems to be less black smoke when I plug it in. I read somewhere that the cold...

Oh wow, yea I just used a 3/8 ratchet with the tube from a hydraulic jack for leverage. I definitely had plenty of clearance, minimal flex on one of the fan blades. To get the belt off was a little more interesting, but nothing too hard either at least. I used a 15/16 wrench on the alternator...

I put my belt on today, and I've been meaning to ask if mine is easier than the belt on other trucks. It took me all of 5 minutes with a helper to pull down the tensioner while I slip the last piece over the crank pulley. I've heard of quick disconnects and other jazz being recommended to...

A soft brass wire brush may be able to clean up the timing marks for you to better read them. It seems the general consensus for these trucks is to set them either dead center or very very minimally towards the driver's side, in all my research I've never seen anyone adjust it towards the...

Let me know if you need any specific pictures or details from my process, I always take a metric ton, more than happy to share my mistakes :P

Thanks! Now that’s interesting, do you even have to yank the manifolds to pull the pump on a turbo truck? Or just the turbo assembly in the center? Was considering a turbo as my next truck down the road, there’s a lot of non-runners on govplanet going for decent prices it seems. My next...