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Yeah. Note to self: Don't do that. That looks expensive.

Thank you, sir. See, this is exactly the kinda reason I told my wife I should buy 1 or 2 more... so much easier to fix when you know what "right" looks like...

Thank you! That looks very much like what I ended up with. Follow up question: after reading both the engine & genset TM I'm still a little unclear. Is the MO to get the bolt/knob & nut locked together on the arm, with the link free to move within the slot? Or am I wanting the knob/bolt & nut...

Mostly true... but symptoms sometimes do, if you fix the problem. Hopefully I'm in the middle of fixing the 2nd possible problem... installing the bulkhead fitting in place of the drain well nut. Although I don't think the well nut was yet actively leaking.

Yeah I saw the vent close thing after I got home, but the TM said basically what you said, and I'd never heard mention of closing it simply to tow it, so I figured that probably wasn't it. Oh well, plenty of meaningful work to do to it, I'll maybe find out if my theory is correct in a few...

Hose clamps are good & snug, the coupling looks good, and if it were leaking there it'd be some kinda black magic... I have the back cover off to investigate that & replace the well nuts, and the outside of the tank is bone dry. Given the amount of leaking it was doing from the supply hoses...

Just picked up my 1st "real" generator, a trailered '11 802A. Just finished a couple minor things to see it running good for myself so I can not feel dumb spending some money to fix little stuff. The main question: Anyone got a good pic of how the shutoff solenoid link from the solenoid...

Man, maybe this is the push I need to finally buy the cordless jigsaw I've been eyeballing but never buying. I cut mine with a Hackzall, and "like butter" is not in any way how I'd describe it... I think I spent about 40 minutes making the 4 long cuts, with fresh blades, and used about 20aH...

Nope, the feed hoses looked fine physically. I haven't really played with them to see if they're, like, cracked halfway through somewhere & the bend was hiding it, or if they were just splooshing around the IP barb. I just shrugged, ripped the rail off, and went about replacing all the rubber...

Perhaps Lucas branched out into rubber goods since they were so successful with electrical components?

I picked up a 2011 production 802 this week, threw the batteries in it after trying to revive them on the charger for a couple days (which... did not work... no shocker) and had enough power to run the fuel pump. Not sure what else, but both feed hoses to the IPs were absolutely gushing fuel...

285/85R16s are about as skinny, 35" as you can get AFAIK.

Should also work if you unplug the connector from the side of the inverter. For some reason, mine has only thrown this fit once, and that was when I left it literally outside, and it got rained on. Even on my patio where the joint from the house roof leaks on it... doesn't care. Even a couple...

"Finally" "finished" my M1101 (OK, it's only been 5 months... and I don't think I'm ever really finished with anything) Made a tongue extension out of 2x2x silly-heavy tube & a nice Buyers cast ball coupler. Swapped brakes to electric with parking brake (yep, definitely not done... planning...

I'd also go with behind the axle, both for convenience & the M1101/2 don't usually need any help getting more tongue weight with the axle so far back. If I'm putting an extra 60ish pounds on it, I'd like it behind the axle, thanks. Dorman started making some spare winch applications, or you...

I just rather recently learned about them myself. My MEP-831's added-on junction box has a couple of them splitting up the neutral to each circuit, which was way easier & more secure than wire nuts. I'm generally a fan of uninsulated crimps, or solder, covered in heatshrink... but trying to...

This is my first one too, in fact my 1st generator I actually own. I went into it with my eyes open knowing the rep it had and I still... I don't wanna say regret it, I just got my fingers crossed I made the right choice. I really like the idea of a super fuel-efficient unit that can make enough...

Perhaps yours is possessed, like I occasionally wonder if mine is. I was beating my head against one of my last issues, the actuator not kicking the target off the magnet when attempting to start. It would virtually never do so without flicking the start switch several times (turns out the SLA...

Wiring diagrams are at the veerrrrrrry end of the TM... which I learned while trying to thumb through it on my phone one evening in the cold.

The PMA is the Permanent Magnet Alternator (AKA the thing attached to the engine). You want to measure voltage between terminals A&B on the controller. The hand knob is setting the RPM "floor", so you want to move it towards 'start' to raise the no-load RPM, or toward 'stop' to lower RPM. The...