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Ah, So you are quite familiar with Whitworth tools? I might even still have one or two buried in an old box somewhere. I was watching some You Tube show where they were restoring a British armored vehicle of some sort and they actually needed Whitworth tools on some of the parts. Can you imagine...

Oh how I wish I had that bottle when I had my shop and I had to work on MG's and all of the other British vehicles. Not to mention all my BSA and Triumph motorcycles. :LOL:

Starter fluid and glow plugs equals blown head gaskets or worse! I have seen heads blown completely off of pickup trucks doing that, Literally blown off the top of the engine! THAT is a lot of force, and just from the ether being ignited by the glow plugs inside the engine. I never use ether...

Couple of ways to do this. You can open the drains on each filter along the line and close them as you get fuel and that will fill all the filters. That is the majority of your fuel and then you can either loosen the line at the pump or just leave it in the prime setting and let the pumps run...

Would that be the same hose as used on high performance cars with AN fittings? If so they have bulk hose and replaceable ends from Summit racing. Here are some of the fittings but I got lost in the search menu. The stuff is there if you can find it...

If you have no continuity from the plug to the body of the pump then that filter could very well be bad. The do not short out, they fail open circuit. Cut it out and crimp the wires together and check the pump again. I thought you wanted to keep the system as it was. If you put that new pump in...

I can tell you right now that pump is probably not the right pump. These pumps are pass through pumps that are designed so that one pump can pump trough another that is not running. Most of the pumps out there will not do that and that is why they are cheaper. You also need to pay attention to...

I have found the most rust penetrants do nothing on varnish, brake cleaner will sometimes but acetone or carb cleaner is the best. Acetone may not be too good for the wiring if it gets into that so I would stick with carb cleaner or throttle body cleaner. Both evaporate fast in most cases so you...

Told you you had it.:cool: And the home made flap wheel is what I used on mine with 600 wet or dry paper and WD 40. Taped the inside edge of the paper to a wood dowel and wrapped the paper around the dowel a dozen times or so by using the drill on slow. Then wiped the WD-40 inside and spun the...

That will be the part that is giving you the problem and yes it is the piston. Put whatever solvent in there you choose, throttle body cleaner should work bu it evaporates very quickly which I think will cause the gunk to just grab back on but give it a try. If they have tried it and it works go...

Ray, his aux pump is fine, it was me that was talking about working on mine.

Thanks for the update and from the sounds of things you are headed in the right direction. I would say that since the transfer pump is still working to leave that one in place for the time being, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I did mine because of a couple reasons. One, I am a mechanic so...

I had never had it apart before this happened so anything is possible. Both filters were dirty but #2 was really dirty and clogged. I think #1 was cleaned at some point and #2 was never done. I got this unit straight from an Air Force base so PMS was not being done as called for obviously. The...

Guy, I had a plugged line take out both pumps. It was actually a plugged filter in pump two. Pump two quit working probably due to heat from running dry, it just bound up. Pump one did not go bad but did not run since it was blocked by pump two. A good cleaning of both pumps AND the fuel tank...

Two things, One is we are NOT dealing with AC power but DC power and two, Wikipedia is not exactly the most dependable source of knowledge out there. When I had my shop one of my specialties was automotive electrical so I got to see my share of corroded wiring. This was before glue sealed crimp...

Evvy, Have you read this thread from the beginning? The very first post was the OP asking for help diagnosing his fuel pumps which are NOT working! So he KNOWS the engine is not getting any fuel and that is why he is here. Please give him a chance to solve that issue first. And I realize you are...

If you are talking about the filters the failure mode is they simply stop passing voltage. They are a capacitor.

To remove the filter cut the wire and strip back the ends and use a marine heat shrink and glue filled butt connector. Once crimped and heated it will be sealed for life.

The rubber connectors do pull apart but you will probably have to twist them a bit to get them going. My guess is that one of the pumps is probably gummed up and that is why it is not running. These pumps are pretty robust and seldom go bad. It does happen but more often they stop working due...

If you follow those wires back from the pumps there should be rubber Packard connectors on them a couple feet back at the most. I have never seen pumps hardwired in.