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The very first thing I would do is remove the shrouds and blow out any debris! That is your cooling and also check to make sure the louvers work freely. If those or the thermostat are frozen they will never open and it will overheat. The overheat switch will reset when it cools off.
What Guyfang says makes sense. In todays times all the stuff like demill and processing out is done by civilian contractors who do not give a darn about going by the book. I know a guy here in NJ whose job it is to just drive and exercise ALL of the military equipment on the base. Trucks...
Was the oil also drained? Hopefully not by the same method! A lot of depots will demill the sets by draining all fluids but usually through drain plugs. I am assuming that fuel tank does not have a drain? Odd they would go to the trouble to pull a cover and do that and go to the trouble of...
The only "Modern" version was the Taiwanese version of the Zenith built under contract from Zenith as replacement carb. The numbers on top of the carb are different but other than that it is a 13660 series carb.
Nobody has mentioned trailer lights. You are not going to be able to plug into the 24 volt trailer lights so a cheapo set of magnetic lights from Harbor Freight will get the job done. I would jack up each side and spin the tire and listen for any bad noises. If smooth and quiet I would probably...
I do rebuilds on the 151 carbs. I do not really advertise other than word of mouth from people who have had them done by me. I take your core and clean it and rebuild it with modern parts from Zenith. I do not bead blast it and make it show car pretty. My prices are much lower than Brooks but...
Subscribing because this sounds just like the problem I have with one of mine. You can verify the fuel supply by watching the return line from the injectors to the tank, if there is fuel returning to the tank then fuel supply is good.
I completely missed the purchase date on the batteries in the first post. I saw the battery maintainer and missed the batteries thinking they were also new. So the batteries were 7 years old and that would explain it.
Well, They are buried dep, deep DEEP in the pile so it will be a while before I can find them. I will probably remember when the power goes out and I find out the batteries are dead just like I always do. Naturally the MEP-002 is in a spot where I can't get my 151 close enough to slave off to...
Somewhere around here I still have the manuals for that unit and I am sure the electronic MWO in in there with part numbers. I can always try. I also have an old 1.5KW 60hz screamer but for some reason I can't get 240 volt out of it. Never really dug into it because it is simply so loud and so...
I have the electronic for my compressor (which I have never installed yet) but not that little genset. I don't know where I would even find it nowadays.
I still have a 1.5K DC set that works great for starting my air compressor and it will start a generator if you let it charge the batteries for a couple minutes. That said, getting that little sucker started is a real ritual in itself with the wrap the rope around the pully and yank it and wrap...
Not knowing what that pin does I am just throwing this out there. If there is something moving against the pin then you might want to go with at least a grade 8 bolt for the hardness. A roll pin is very hard and will not wear much from friction. A standard grade 5 or Chinese grade -0 bolt will...
Ah, Now we find out there is more to the story. :rolleyes: If the governor was apart then yes, you need to check it out and be sure it is set to specs.
Pulling out on the cable is increasing the RPM! It sounds like all of the adjustments you are making are going the wrong way. You need to look up the manual and get the right procedure. I don't have it in front of me right now so can't help much but as I said pulling out on the cable increases rpm.
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