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Thanks for coming back to explain your problem and the resolution.

I happened to have the reamer as I was also replacing the pins that hold the leaf springs to the frame. Made new pins 0.010 oversize and reamed out the worn bushings.

The groove helps the grease get around the pin of course. I changed these also and the new ones did not have the grooves same as yours. I ended up getting an expansion reamer and opening them up just a bit. There is a spec in the TM. After pressing them in the ID shrinks some. I did not cut...

If the return does not go thru perhaps you can try to see if there is any commonality between the two solenoids. Use the guts from the new in the old one with the spring. I know this probably sounds too obvious. Did you try cleaning the contacts? They look a little burned. Have to ask.

If you have trouble getting the seals out you can try another method. I cut up a heavy piece of wood to go across the face of the housing and made a piece of steel I could slip into the seal. Then with a threaded rod, two nuts, and some big washers I was able to jack them out all controlled like.

https://www.bigmikesmotorpool.com/products/speedometer-cable-for-m35a2-7358196 https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartDetails/2019/M35A2-Series-Speedometer-Angle-Drive-Unit

Looks like speedometer cable

It is common for the A2 I know. Needs a vent to prevent a vacuum from forming in the master cylinder. I never worked on an A3 but it has dual circuit brakes I believe so maybe they fitted a remote reservoir to them when they were built up? It is a PITA to check the brake fluid on the A2 unless...

You will need to remove this vent line to check/fill the brake fluid. I believe this went line runs to the tee and then up to the slobber tube on the engine. You can remove it but be sure to plug it at the tee. You can use the threaded hole on the top of the cap to install a line to a remote...

If I am not mistaken you have the cool camo scheme talked about in this thread...looks nice. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/deuce-camo-active-duty.206851/

Brake Work could mean a lot of things. For me it meant rebuilding the air pack, installing a new master cylinder, all new rubber lines, new hard lines, relining the drum brake shoes and installing new wheel cylinders. Also a remote reservoir after everything else was done. It was a lot of work...

I hate taking things apart for no reason...but once you know...you know. You already have been through most of the fuel system leading to the Booster pump and HH it sounds like. Yes Floridianson has a damn good point that the engine will stay running after start-up. To me this is odd. So what...

Currently investigating the installation of a ~24kw generator for backup power at work. Was quoted a 24kw air cooled 3600 rpm homeowner unit from Generac. Expensive including installation. After some further research Generac offers a commercial 1800 rpm water cooled unit at 22kw. Other...

Yes it should be easier to take off the hydraulic head than the booster pump. Order a new set of O-Rings while you are in there to change. Also you might want to get your hands on a spare clip as they sometimes break a leg. If it does not make any difference than you can attack the booster. At...

Search around on the site here. It can be done in the truck. You need to loosen up some motor mounts and then you can shift the engine over to one side if I remember correctly.

AMEN! The availability of relatively inexpensive VFD has opened up the market for 3 phase equipment to be used by the homeowner. At work I am not itching to replace any of the old DC controlled variable speed motor drives we have as long as they are working. However all the Reeves variable...

I believe my MEP-003 would start that load anyway. It might drag down for a few seconds but it would start. Not sure why an 803 wouldn't do the same. But if the power line power can supply 230V 1Ph at 30A or more then the VFD should run this saw for a lot less cost and less messing around.

Yes and perhaps it will run on the line power to replace the rotary phase converter.

You will be able to pull 30A from the single phase and that equates to 10 HP at 230V 3ph. I use VFD on stamping presses and they do not pull more then FLA at start-up. But the saw will turn on a little bit more slowly and ramp up to speed. This can be configured in the settings.

You might install a VFD on the saw. Those can be set up to start pretty soft. Check if your motor is compatible but usually they are fine. This one might work for you...