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Sometimes it's the small details that make the package. I thought since there's plenty of open space in these GM wheels that the look would appreciate a little old-school treatment of black to the brake drums...give that polished aluminum the "pop" it deserves. The drums were a PITA to get off...

It's not poor practice, that's your opinion...and opinions are like assholes. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Rather rude to say other guys are wrong for not doing it your way. There's 50 ways to skin this cat and it's up to the guy who's actually doing the work to decide what's right or wrong. Our only place is to give suggestions as to the different options so a guy can make an educated decision...

Everyone I know wired their 4-low signal wire to a dash toggle Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

You're talking relictot wheel added to transmission tailshaft Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

It will give what's needed as long as the leg for the 4-low gets a signal as such Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

@Skinny Dakotas analog to digital sending unit comes off the transfer case tailshaft in place of where the speedo cable would be, takes the spinny cable mechanical output and converts it to a usable signal the LS and digital speedos can use. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

IIRC Dakota Digital has a nice analog to digital speed sensor sending unit. Would be super common for them since all their stuff is digital meant for an analog application. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

@Skinny does the NP241 from the 88-91 Blazers and Suburbans have the 4-low switch a guy would need for the ECM signal? I know the drop is on the correct side. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Did you use an aftermarket cross member? What oil pan did you go with. Are you having to install a lift for proper clearance? Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Put your hand up in the wheelwell to the elbow and push your siphon hose thru the rubber elbow Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Knee-jerk reaction project courtesy of another thread about battery chargers kicked me in high gear. So this other member posts up about which proper charger to use on his 803A and @Light in the Dark promptly dropped what I call a "NOCO bomb" which was like a slap in the face as I already run...

Sorry, just saw this. Yes, the 50A RV outlet on the bottom of the panel is what I used to backfeed the house. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

If the shaft is broken, a guy could try drilling a recess in the remaining shaft and then an extractor (ez-out) Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

If it was me, I'd draw up a simple schematic and narrative on paper and submit it for a permit. You don't have to have a certified electrician do the work, meeting code requirements is all the inspector cares about. There's a reason some things require I and some don't...despite the extra...

Where'd ya mount the charger? Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Ladies and gentlemen, Light in the Dark sends another one deep, deep into Center Field!! I have NOCO stuff charging/tending 3 motorcycles, 2 backup batteries, a Powerwheels ATV, and in all 3 of my vehicles with the same surface port in the front bumper...absolutely primo stuff. They also make...

Pretty please with a cherry on top! Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

How were you able to decide which aftermarket part number was the correct one to use? I've tried searching by p/n from the TM without success. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Badass! Thx for the pics Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk