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WOW….just WOW! Awesome!!

Nice job Ron!! Kudos to your more than capable staff on the restoration, looks AWESOME!!

Dang that‘s a shame…I also benefited from his sales & PIF deals. Plus I enjoyed reading his posts, he had a wealth of useful knowledge & I was appreciative of his willingness to share so willingly with us. Rest In Peace, sir….you’ll be missed.

You, sir, have a gift…thank you for sharing your gift with us! That is outstanding work!

Good to see you back on here Trango!

It’s all intentional

The dual-tired M105 trailer in pics above is mine. I just added stock M35 wheels & 9.00 tires. The overall width (outside sidewall to outside sidewall) is just shy of 104 inches, so YES, it is over width. I used it to move & store 4 multifuel takeout engines, and it is still storing them next...

My apologies; I must have misread or misunderstood…didn’t meant to derail your thread.

OR, get a new nut slightly smaller & accompanying die and go from there. (Since you mentioned that the previous threads were stripped out and left a smooth shaft…why not just cut new threads slightly smaller and use a new nut that fits them? With a little anti-seize applied of course…)

Females tend to get friendlier with the more money you throw at them…I’m sure this one is no different. It’s just a matter of money: how friendly & affectionate do you want her to be?

Excellent write-up! This should just about cover the entirety of the short AirPaks out there. Thanks for sharing!

Absolutely incredible work! Well done!!

I get most of my Detroit parts from Powerline Components in Wyoming; they’ve always come through for me, especially if you ask Sales for Joe. Be sure to have your engine model number & serial number handy, in order to be able to get the right parts…unless you can verify the exact part number...

I have broken down tube tires mostly with a duckbill hammer and tire spoons. For the stubborn ones where the rust & ancient rubber bead have fused and wouldn’t move with any hammering, I pushed the tire/wheel under my flatbed equipment trailer and used a hydraulic bottle jack to break the beads...

Hydraulic Bead Breaker

How about an Electric-Over-Hydraulic controller (12-volt)? That way you could use a standard trailer plug to tow it…the hydraulic brakes are pretty effective on these trailers. As stated in other threads, you can get 6-lug Budd wheels in other, smaller sizes to use modern tubeless radial tires...

But then you’d have to turbo & intercool it…. :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

Either hooks on ends of chain or with some Grade8/10 bolts/washers/nuts/etc…

It’s possible that your air dryer is plugged, causing excessive back pressure (seen it a few times). Air dryers are commonly overlooked on these trucks, when is the last time it was serviced?

The same as yours…so I just remove them and use the manual shut-off cable.