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Yes this project is still going on. Long story but started doing a few more things to the truck. Working on the top and put the blinker switch and exhaust heat shield on.
I think a lobe on the camshaft operates the pump. If it’s worn you have to replace the shaft or possibly build it back up with more material by welding and grinding
Glad you got her going. Owning a foreign made odd vehicle can be dufficult. I have a british fv432. It has been a great vehicle but I often feel like I’m one small problem away from owning a 15 ton paper weight.
glsd you found your issue.
I’m wanting to do the same thing. I received a set of “free” CUCVs a 1008 and 1009 from a good friend. both need drive trains . The 1009 has no engine or trans. It may be easier to just put in a small block or maybe a 454
I would never sell them so I’ve got to do something with them.
Has anyone ever seen an MWO for the conversion? I have been to.d it exist but have never actually seen it. would have helped when I converted my 53 Studebaker
Save money until you can buy one made from real parts or at least metal. Best place to purchase is a large mv rally like Aberdeen or MVPA National . Resin guns are cheap and you get what you pay for. That’s my 2 cents
And as far as scratching goes yes it will scratch but much like CARC they sort of rub out. Now do I think this is the perfect substitute for real automotive paint no it is not. Wouldn’t paint a classic car with Behr but is more than fine for a restored military vehicle that never had a...
I Think the thinning is the root of your problem. Real CARC paint has a texture to it. It is not smooth. I have never thinned the paint and have had no issues. Also have never used Satin. Have heard it does not work as well. So I can say with flat not thinned I have had no issues...
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