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After the first couple 809 series I bought the remote starter switch / button. The 250 Cummins was easy by just running in the thumb screw for the electric shutdown for the fuel turn on the master and use the remote starter button. Never had to do the 9:39 series or the Cummins 8 3 but still the...
Well I did say all 809 series I started in second low and then went to second high but that was not the truth. The 816 wrecker was way too heavy so it was starting second low run through all the gears and high fourth and fifth high or she fall flat on her face. I don't use first low gear in a...
Myself if you weren't having problems with the button and the head is not leaking from the o-rings just do the booster pump. If I remember right there's only been one person on the board that had trouble with the lower unit. The fulcrum arm came off one of the pins. Myself I don't like cracking...
Seems like the majority or 99% of the time we either have head button problems. Then also there is the o-rings and possible cracked head. Then you said there's a problem with a booster pump putting fuel into the crankcase. I'm guessing your FDC has been bypassed so that rules out putting fuel...
When I started working on these things in the collection I bought a remote starter switch. That if the PCB goes bad you just turn the ignition Master on and then use the remote starter button from the starter tripwire to a power source and they usually start. You can do a search on the PCB box...
What I'm saying is you can watch that fuel control unit assembly and if it's moving just grab it with your fingers and hold it in one position see if you can get it to idle and stay running not cut out.
You said checking the fuel shut off. I'm going to guess you're talking about the fuel control unit assembly. If that's hanging up in the idle position that could cause surging you might want to double check that again. You can run the engine with the timing shutdown rod cover off and watch to...
With just a flat blade screwdriver you can take the timing shutdown rod cover off and be able to see the position of the fuel control unit assembly. You can also check the timing without any tools and that cover off.
Don't mean to discourage anybody from printing a seal driver. It just doesn't need to be printed to the specs that are in the TM's. Just make the base flat without the inner lip that holds the seal. Make it either the same size as the seal in diameter or even larger. And then beef up the edges...
Well as we found out you don't really need any special tools to install the ctis seals or the inner hub seal. The inner hub seal can be installed with a hammer and a piece of 2x4 or just a hammer. If you've got one of the seals you'll see it has an outer lip where a lot of other trucks the inner...
I forget what post it was but I was asking you to remove the return line that comes off the head and goes up to the T on the secondary. If I remember I told you to remove that line at the T and stick that line in a gallon jug or a jug and turn on the in tank pump. Here I was wanting to see if...
Okay we're definitely talking about the 12-point cap on the side of the hydraulic head not the interference fit hex head that's on the top. Yes that's why I said you got to be careful that little spring. Then there's the delivery valve inside of there. Has a slot in it and a right size flat...
The delivery valve is that 12-point cap on the side of the head facing the firewall. Underneath there is a small spring and the delivery valve. It's kind of like a needle in seat. It can be removed and cleaned and the seat also cleaned.
This is tread is getting pretty long and you still haven't found the problem. Without reading through the whole threat again did you happen to check that delivery valve on the side of the head?
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