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Usually those bolts are rusted in place and won't budge with common tools - unless you had a torch and heat the area to almost red.

You may have noticed already that the housing is slotted both sides, so that when you tighten those bolts it actually clamps both lower spring leaves, thus eliminating any possible lateral play, there. So yes, ideally those two bolts should be loosened before removing the spring pack - although...

Pretty sure gear oil made its way into the hub(s). Suspect the outer seals and/or whatever you used to plug the keyway. Those inner (cup)seals really aren't designed to hold oil. And grease alone wouldn't cause that leak.

You mean stuff like bearing grease? I would never recommend that...!

Yes, they sure do. And they have the beadlocks, too. 10-on-11.25" pattern, 20 bolts/nuts, 1st and 4th to the left of the valve are shorter (for the CTIS valve & hardware). Note that the first wheel at least is missing its valve stem. Just make sure you get the correct ones. (HALTEC turret...

Oops... really....??:oops: Naw, it's not my speciality. I'd better leave that for the professionals.... All it took is a bit of photoshopping, to remove some stains.

Please no, it's not necessary; don't waste your time! I was just joking about that fingerprint; it is very easy for me to make it disappear. Will post the PDF file, later tonight. Edit: Attached PDF....

Got it, thanks! Is this your personal, secret "watermark"? Should it appear/remain in the PDF, also.....? :giggle:

Lol... I sure meant the full size picture, not the plate itself... gringeltaube@gmail.com

OK, much better, Mike. Still, I would like to see that original, for comparison (and possibly convert to PDF). Can you please email it to me?

Being a picture, it's blurry and hard to read, even blown-up to 300%. Maybe that same chart does exist somewhere in PDF-format? What about that trailer's corresponding TM?

The axle housing itself is a weldment: all mild steel, formed & welded together. Only the housing of the differential assembly is cast iron.

FTM, it can't be 105" unless tire bulge played a role - if measured about 4" above (hard)ground. Otherwise it's 103.3" (+/- 1/4", depending on tire brand).

That's an easy one, since we know the width of each component: A) The axle measures 78.9" between wheel mounting surfaces. (same as the M35 front axle, BTW) B) Each center disc has a thickness of 0.48". C) The stock 20x7.5" wheel backspace is 10.53". D) Stock 9.00-20 tires protrude from...

I which TM did you find that info...?:? I know it's a bit confusing, but following has already been confirmed to be correct: TM 9-2330-205-14&P , for the M200A1 & A2, lists the P/N MS19081-112 - (4) sets per trailer, which we know is 3984/3920 in the civi bearing world. And that same P/N...

Yeah, usually those CAD drawings you find in the Timken catalogs (and others too) aren't very precise. "B" is just the bare cone width; not considering the cage. "B" may-or may not be identical to "T", depending each bearing(set) design-and number. And in our particular case, only "T" is...

The angle "a" is smaller for the 39590/39520 (meaning the rollers are less conical, thus increasing the radial load capacity while reducing the max. axial load.) Dimension "T" is the same for both sets: 1.1875"

Richard, you do have the PDF TM9-2330-205-14&P downloaded, right? If you use the find-function for that P/N MS19081-112, it gives you the corresponding NSN, in the cross-reference indexes, at the end of the book, SECTION IV.

Well, it's still wrong...:neutral: The correct cup for the M200A1 is #3920 (Ø 4-7/16" x 15/16" width) and the correct cone for it is #3984 (Ø 2-9/16"). Both inner and outer hub bearing sets are identical. So it takes (4) 3920 and (4) 3984 for a complete axle rebuild. And yes, the M105A3...

Guy: 3rd row in your table (3920/2984) is a mistake. Should be 3920/3984.