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Well this is no longer a head gasket recovery thread, now is a what the h*ll happened thread as the motor has been destroyed. I got the motor pulled and somewhat disassembled and looks essentially like a bomb went off. Cylinder 5 connecting rod is blown apart. Piston is cocked in the cylinder...

Sh*t hit the fan today on my way back from a weekend camping trip and I blew a head gasket. I was climbing a decent hill (but not the steepest/longest I encountered) on the trip home and noticed what sounded like a very minor exhaust leak. This even started before I got to the hill and was...

It was one of the largest I could find! It works very well https://derale.com/product-footer/54006-detail

How to the webs look? Mine looked almost that nice but was full of cracks ☹️

Makes sense, great video. A little bit of work then to switch sides but not a big deal. And then the engine/trans cooler lines don't each have to cross sides like they do now. Probably would help transmission temperatures too since the fluid would go through the "cool" side of the radiator.

Awesome, great to know! Did you end up mounting it on the drivers side then? I have a pretty large secondary trans fluid cooler there (mounting has slightly changed from this pic but it is more or less in a similar position) so just wondering if it’ll still fit there or if I’ll have to do some...

I’ve been tossing around the idea of a separate engine oil cooler and had a few questions: For those that have done it, did you still run the oil through the radiator first or bypass that and just do the standalone separate cooler? And if you did the standalone, what did you use/how did you...

Nice work! One thing to note which took me a while to figure out, the wheel wells are lower (closer to the tire) in the rear. If you measure from the body line to the tire you’ll get a more accurate picture of true level front to back.

Any bottle would work to an extent but with the capacity of our coolant systems we need a pretty large expansion bottle to prevent it from being overflowed. So I’d suggest either the oem bottle or pretty large aftermarket one.

I would start with pressure testing the cooling system. My radiator runs full and uses the expansion tank as balance. Being that you’re blowing coolant out it sounds like something is pretty wrong. Also have you emptied some of the coolant out of the radiator, leave off the radiator cap and...

You got it right. I don't have any great pictures but this is the best i have on my phone. You can see the red cable in the lower right/center. Cable goes from the starter, hangs on a hanger off an oil pan bolt like you have it, then across the top of the frame towards the front battery tray...

Sadly the banks kit isn't made anymore so unless you get lucky and find a used one the turbo project involves alot of work. It'll be worth it in the end though! With regards to the dipstick, the 6.5 and 6.2 pans are the same oil fitting and angle, just the 6.5 pan has the fitting roughly .75"...

This motor is actually a 6.5 optimizer so that’s why I went this route. But I don’t think it makes much of a difference. The 6.5 has a different valve cover which has mesh in it which is supposed to help catch the oil but some still gets through. The old 6.2 banks turbo kit still used the 6.2...

Yeah it is a bit high priced but there don’t seem to be a lot of options out there. I didn’t install the box it came with, just the tube/filter. I may look at trying to fit the filter box in to ideally keep the filter a little cleaner and prevent it from picking up dirty air from below the...

That is correct, it'll need to be before the turbo. I have an S&B intake which made connecting the CDR easy, but maybe you could get a short piece of tubing to extend it forward an inch or 2, and then drill a hole in the tubing and add a grommet and adapt from there.

The saga continues…. I noticed lately that my coolant temps seem to rise more than normal. Still at light load stay around 195-197 but once it’s working hard rise pretty quickly to 210. I did a decent amount of work with it last summer in hotter weather and it never got past 205. So I suspected...

Actually you can change it with everything together. Especially since you'll have the new gasket in with the new IP. Just loosen the 3 mounting bolts a little and you can rotate it in either direction and then tighten back up.

I believe you said your mileage was pretty terrible right? I feel like these motors are forgiving with timing so it still could've been off and caused your mileage to be poor. Personally I'd revert back to the factory marks with the new pump and go from there.

I went with a Dorman fuel tank and it was fine so I wouldn't bother trying to reuse the current one. Who makes a 31 gallon tank?

I'm not any closer to answering my original questions but i've fixed the leaking cap. Essentially the Harbor Freight pressure tester bottomed out (due to the longer radiator neck) and there are 2 screws on the inside of the adapter. Those screw heads contacted the radiator neck flange and put...