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Well I finally got the truck put back together enough after putting on the new heads and turbo to hook the batteries and start it up to see how everything works. After bleeding the air out of the fuel system it started and ran great for about 5 minutes. Then all of a sudden it started running a...

Sure seems like something isn’t working right, your rpm’s should be lower than that with OD. The overdrive unit is kicking in right? Granted I have a .70 OD ratio with the 700r4 vs the gear vendors unit at .78 but I run 60 mph at 2000 rpm

I used those on my camper for attaching a solar powered charger. Honestly they're pretty chintzy so I wouldn't recommend them for a cucv. Something like this would be more robust which I have on another vehicle I own if you really want quick disconnect ability.

How much do you want to spend? :LOL:

For the solenoid I purchased Napa Part #: ECH ST85 and it works good.

I installed a fluid damper. Works good but can’t say whether it’s worth the extra coin for it. But if you can’t get the 1 remaining normal (and normally priced) balancer left on rock auto then I’d say go that route.

I went with a "Level 2" 700r4 built by Bowtie Overdrives. It has only been a year but no issues so far, and it is rated for 450 hp/tq which unless you're doing serious motor upgrades is plenty strong for the 6.2. I can cruise on the highway with ease. Check out my build thread starting on post...

Ah yes I have seen that swap around. Thanks! Nice progress on the build!

What steering shaft did you end up going with? Looks nice

Here you go https://www.jatonkam35s.com/CUCVTechnicalmanuals/lo9-2320-289-12.pdf

Next up was 6.5 injectors and lines. I purchased Bostic motors 6.5-DB2 lines to match the new angle on my heads, they weren’t a perfect fit but easy enough to make work. Also did 6.5 valve covers as I’m switching to that CDR setup and added Quadstar tuning valve cover studs and plates to help...

I went with this. It was a bit pricey and only time will tell if it works. But it definitely feels like a firmer install vs just tightening double ended studs into the flimsy steel covers. https://quadstartuning.com/collections/engine-electronics/products/6-5l-valve-cover-plate-stud-kit

On mine the passenger alternator doesn’t have a wire going to that, it just has a rubber cap on the alternator there. I had the engine wiring assembly apart over the weekend and didn’t notice any botched wires either. Seems a little strange now that you say that but my gen 1/2 lights worked...

I’m not 100% sure which wire it is on the alternator but here is a pic of the back of my alternator I took prior to disassembly. The lower red wire terminal on the alt is somewhat hidden in the pic but it is behind the nut on the upper red wire.

I am in the process of adjusting the fuel screw on the injection pump. However, I am trying to remove the guide stud and it is putting up quite the fight. I’ve put a lot of force on it and it still hasn’t broke free, and now my allen is fitting loose. It’s not quite stripped yet but I don’t...

Hopefully nothing else too major after you work through this issue.

I hope you just took the starter brace off to take the pictures and it hasn’t been running that way for a while!

The timing chain play was past spec so I changed that as well and then reinstalled the front cover along with a new flow cooler water pump. Hopefully my anaerobic gasket maker job is sufficient, every gasket kit comes with these gaskets but I followed the TMs along with what people typically...

Then I realized I had some cracks in the lower block webs so worked through that here. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/block-crack-options.214106/ Then I cleaned up the block deck and prepped for new head gaskets. It takes a while but went slow with a razor blade and carbide scraper to...

After I pulled the heads in the truck, I realized how much it sucked working with it still in the truck so I put the heads back on and pulled the motor.