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Yes it is, I got some like that from a member in marble falls (iirc), have installed 2 and they work great, super quiet. You do have to solder the new connector to the fuel pump wire on your truck but other than that it’s a direct fit. Make sure you get a new piece of hose to go with it.
There is damp air trapped inside, you can drill a 1/8” or so hole in back (carefully) to vent it so the dessicant will work even better, then as soon as you remove from dessicant seal the hole with urethane or silicone. If the seal on the gage is bad enough it will may return, if not planning on...
As gringletaub said brake rod too long or a tiny passage in the master cylinder can get clogged and cause this as I’ve seen it many times on cars, atvs and side by sides, it causes the dragging/not releasing brakes and the hard pedal with no free play.
I got new replacement clip, button and bow tie washer (check it for cracks) directly from ambac, iirc there is a number on your existing button that tells you what it is so you can get a identical replacement, I either found the part numbers here on the site or a member provided then to me.
Congrats Aussie!! My air governor would do that from time to time too, a simple disassembly/cleaning/lubing did the trick. If you disassemble it , there is a Allen set screw hidden under a expansion plug that you have to loosen first. The large jam nut is the pressure adjustment I believe so...
Sounds like a good project for the weekend if I can find some fine mesh screen, found #20 mesh stainless but have to order that in. Thanks for the idea!!!
Could a screen be added to the compressor mounting bracket to catch the debris in case of a failure? I haven’t seen the inside of a bracket in a long time.
My original data plates also had the OD green color vs black, all of mine were pretty bad except the one with the vin number on it so mine don’t match. I have a different plate that was attached to those 4 holes
I have a complete used electric wiper setup for a deuce, used cab heater (no flex duct) motor runs and it wasn’t leaking when removed, led and incandescent tail lights/turn signals, air horns, some led flood lights w/brackets from mraps, I’ll see what else I can find to bring
Yes 395’s and 2500 (as accurate as the tach is) get you 62mph, but it’s PLENTY fast, just allow extra time for travel, and it prob won’t get 62 with a loaded trailer. As stated #1 brakes/bearings, then everything else.
I’ve got a parts truck, I may pull the primary assy off of it and see if it has something mine is missing, if it’s the same I’ll prob do what you did and call jotonka.
I’m using the original canisters for the 10 mic secondary and the 6 micron final. I added a mounting base on the fire wall for the CAT 2 mic that is last in line. Yes, it’s now 4 filters, when I run out of 10 mic secondaries I’ll just run a 6 mic in the “final” position and leave the “secondary”...
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