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There is a 6 micron final filter available from Napa that fits the original can, 2 - 10 micron filters back to back didn’t make much sense to me and I think I read here somewhere that the original finals were 2 micron? I also added a 2 micron spin on CAT 1R-0750 as a final-final lol

I wanted a deuce since I saw that movie when I was a kid, I hope there wasn’t really someone driving that truck in the movie!!!

Your compressor should be good, get a 1/2” air hose with the larger quick connects to run a 3/4” impact, it will work with 3/8” hose and regular quick connects but the 1/2” hose makes a huge difference. Get the special wrenches for the air compressor sheave, they make adjusting the belt much...

I read about slipping problems and did the same thing, one original belt on alt and one longer running alt and ac.

I didn't do a build thread on the a/c but I prob should have. I used a 2 groove, 24v sanden sd7 milsurp compressor from fuzzytoaster, brackets are 50% vintage air that I robbed from my 71 Cheyenne and 50% fabbed. V.A. parallel flow condenser , this type works extremely well with 134 and needs to...

The retainers from a soft top will work, just need to re drill a few holes to match the screw holes in the hard top. Mine were like Swiss cheese, this is how I figured this out

Looking good!

You can remove drivers fender, steering wheel, steering column clamp, then the 4 bolts that secure the column to the box. This allows the column to slide up the shaft, leaving the shaft in place. Stuff rags in the opening of the box to be safe. Once you disconnect the lines from booster it comes...

The reamer is THE right way, and cost is reasonable, yes it can be done with a hone IF it doesn't clog, it could even be done with a whipstick/sandpaper in a diegrinder. Will the bore be straight on such a short length? Definitely not. Possibly not even round bc the hone just follows whatever...

I haven't installed a muffler yet but I've got mine down to db's in the low 80's at highway speeds. What I did was sound deadener in hard top/back, on firewall, bottom side of cowl, and bottom of trans tunnel, I used noico brand black from amazon, and still plan to do back side of cab. Hardtop...

You'd be there a while taking out .012", and would wind up with a hourglass shaped bushing using a spring loaded brake hone. Non ferrous metals also clog grinding/honing stones.

Gringeltaube is the king of homemade machine tools!!! A 1-1/8 hand reamer should get it right where you need it according to the specs. Mr.G. Do they give a spec for the spindle bushing ID?

You can get a import hand reamer for the kingpin bushings for $50-$60 on egay, or any good machineshop should be able to ream them to size in a few minutes providing they are not a odd ID. By your first post it looks like the pins measure 1.124 , a 1-1/8" (1.125) reamer is pretty common, that's...

What is dia of kingpins? What is id of bushings after pressing?

I wouldn't want the large spindle bushing snug bc of expansion with heat, it could stick to the shaft as the shaft grows. The spindle bushing won't have anything to do with tire wear or alignment as it is just a guide to keep the shaft straight while spinning. There may be a clearance spec for...

.124 should go in .127, is the .127 ID after being pressed into the holders or before? If before then they are being crushed when pressed and prob require reaming. I'm not a TM expert but have been a machinist for a long time and reaming bushings after pressing is very common.

My truck made oil from the day I got it, fdc was already bypassed by the military, I did the HH and shutoff o-rings and eliminated the flame heater. All of this slowed it a little but not a lot, the truck was overhauled at tead and all rebuild tags are dated 92. It came down to the booster pump...

I don't want to interrupt, just have info to Add. I wasn't able to get the gates hose locally, the only place I found that listed it wanted me to buy the whole roll. I found parker push lock 8600 on a popular auction site, I've used lots of push lock in the past and it was always good. This is...

The split one for the wire harness is steel with extremely thin rubber coating, the NOS ones I bough were already starting to rust. I soaked in lacquer thinner to remove rubber, blasted, primed and painted. Then made rubber gasket to go behind it, help seal hole and to help keep harness off...

Mine were safety wired, figure 8 pattern in pairs, so 4 fig 8's per hub. I used my SS safety wire .032 iirc, but the originals wire was thicker.