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The bolts that hold mine to the springer base are 7/16-20. Be sure you attach them to the cab as well as the seat using the short belts with mounting tabs on both ends.

Clinto, I noticed exactly the same thing with a springer on the pass side. I restored my bench seat and reinstalled now all is right with the world again.

I bought a conplete nos springer locally for $100, I also had to re-drill, my advice would be to disassemble and grease all the pivot point before installing. After about a week of daily use my was squeaking BAD.

Mine leaked intermittently, I thought it was the fuel supply hose from the primary filter but it was the brass 45 deg fitting that wasn't tight in the IP. Just start by checking all fittings and hoses, degrease and watch it.

I just rebuilt the pump on my truck last weekend, I didn't move the motor at all, I pulled the drivers fender for easier access (no ladder needed). I pulled the steering wheel, disconnected turn signal, loosened the column mount on the dash, pulled the 4 bolts securing the column to the steering...

That's not OCD, it's just taking pride in your work !!!

Make sure the copper fuel lines aren't rubbing the side of the hole where they pass thru the frame.

How much toe should I run with 395 mvt's?

Fuzzytoaster has a lds for sale in college station, if interested pm me

Right, those quad rings won't tolerate imperfections like the original seal did. Rusty is there any source for the original cup type seals?

Looks like it's just a tiny ding, knock it off with a small file, the piston is softer than the cast iron master cylinder it won't scar it and really shouldn't touch the bore anyway.

Glad you got your plates seth, when this started there were other people wanting plates, you gave me good info but the others either didn't have their wheels yet or would not respond to repeated requests for the info on exactly which wheels they had.

I understand , lots to overcome, I saw the electric setup the other day and just thought I'd suggest it.

These are a electric pump that provides the boost to the hydraulic side of the brakes, no engine driven hyd pump needed. I think , and Clinto can verify I'm sure, that fitting a dual circuit master cylinder to the bracket on a single circuit truck is a big problem and I believe why he's looking...

Has anyone considered using the electric/hydraulic boost pumps they use on hot rods that have big cams/low vacuum? If someplace like wilwood has a MC that fits the existing bracket with f/r outlets it would eliminate all the hassles/plumbing and second expensive air pack that come with...

Isn't it mounted under the hood on the firewall near where the main harness passes through? There's a CAD wiring diagram in the sticky section

Thanks!! Got the front finished this am, drove it around, HUGE improvement!! Call me crazy but the steering is actually much better as well as the ride.

I finished up re-centering my fmtv wheels, took them to the sand blaster along with the inner structure pieces from the hard top. I also re packed all wheel bearings bc they all got a little Harvey in them, adjusted the brakes, welded some retainer plates on my old cracked torque rods until I...

How about corn cob or walnut media in a vibratory cartridge case cleaner?

I sanded CARC and repainted my LH fender and engine cover to match the RH side. Texasvet100 is a vfw member so he and I hauled Vets in the county fair kickoff parade. http://kwhi.com/video-2017-washington-county-fair-parade/ we are at approx the 28 min mark.