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I like the Dakota concept but I'll have to finish some projects around the house before my wife will let me drop that kind of dough. I'm shooting for $300-500 to get two pressure and 1 temp reading with rpm optional.

Ideally with gaskets you should use some type of compression limiter. A piece of thin tubing cut slightly shorter than the thickness of the gasket installed around each bolt would allow the gasket to be torqued properly without squishing the gasket to oblivion or causing it to extrude.

I was thinking something like this except that it's OBD2 only. Maybe this is a start. It can output to OBD2. https://www.justraceparts.com.au/car-multi-gauge-base-unit-sensor-package?gclid=Cj0KCQiAh8OtBhCQARIsAIkWb69Y7wRKEvWWhVGN5C_Vr7JLIjcH7GVvVeSFMcN5kPO2TI0WEqya7QgaAqO8EALw_wcB

Joist tape sounds like it would be ideal. https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-5-8-in-x-50-ft-Butyl-Joist-Tape-for-under-Decking-Board-398228/311992207

Which RTV did you use? The Right Stuff in black is the best to use. Make sure the surfaces are clean bare metal. No paint. Trying to install the valve covers in chassis can be tricky. Those rear rocker arms like to scrape the RTV off while you snake the cover between the brake booster or fuel...

Depending on the location and extent of the damage, I would also consider an epoxy patch. Cut out the rusty area. If it's on a flat area I would use preformed flat sheets of Garolite G-10 and 3M DP100NS adhesive. Ok a curved surface I would lay up some fiberglass biaxial tape with West System...

How much waste oil does everyone have? You can blend it with diesel and it doesn't require any treatment. I have dumped oil changes straight into my tank on my M1008. That's 2 gallons into less than 20 for the 6.2 liter diesel. It ran no differently than normal and made no smoke. It did not...

Good evening. I have not done any research yet and am wondering what is already known. I have installed a 2001ish center mount turbo 6.5 engine in my CUCV. I installed the DB2 pump and did not carry over any of the later electronics. I would like to get some gauges on the truck and have all of...

If you don't think your switch will handle it, add a relay.

I drove the heck out of my M1008 when it was 100% original and it seems that the more I modify it the less I drive it. I drove it over 800 miles in one day but don't really trust it to go 8 miles right now. Now, I have had some failures in that time. The original radiator failed and cause the...

Rubber is not damaged by sand blasting.

Zig zag is single phase.

How does it drive? If it's shifting hard you may need to do some adjusting/repair. If the shifting is correct you're good to go.

I meant to say that it has been cracked for some time before it broke. That's what the corrosion on the fracture face indicates.

How did it get bent? It looks like it had been fractured for some time. There is corrosion in the break.

We run 99 and 125kW John Deere generator sets at 10% load for 95% of their lifespan. We get 35k+ hours out of them and don't have wet stacking issues. Lube oil consumption was outrageous on the 8.1L 125kW units so we downsized to 99kW 4.5L units. If you have motor loads with high inrush make...

I'm not a fan of aftermarket chassis parts with grease fittings. The sealed units have long life greases that most people don't know about. Polyurea greases are not compatible with the auto parts store lithium greases. Of course, this wouldn't cause a link to break.

The movement is critical. Your engine cannot survive without it. At a minimum you should hear a clunk from the crankshaft if you bump it quickly.

Use a prybar to bump the crankshaft fore and aft. I think it should move around 0.006". I don't have the number memorized.

That first video looks like Hollister Hills. Put my first and second dents in my M1008 there.