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....And of course the 'obligatory' CO2 fire extinguisher on hand... When not in ( That ) use..inside the Cab of your truck...:unsure:..

Hmm, Don't know about ladders...I simply use an 'assist' post, and the under bumper step. I arrowed a picture of my wrecker with same. If you have the plate in bumper, then that's a bonus. If I can 'Hoick' myself up with ease...(At my ( considerable ))Age..it IS quite do'able. (tiny writing!..)...

'Invention is the mother of necessity', As the saying goes. 10 out of 10 for ingenuity.

shhhheeesh!..I think most (Just) ordinary folks would need to take an engineering degree, and purchase an engineering fully workshop to follow these so precise instructions plans and details. I got 'lost after the 2nd or third paragraph. However, Thank you for time trouble excellent...

That's waaa't 'appens, when that unbelievably stupidly designed (Idiot) 'Bit' falls off. .( Regularly). Rotate the engine until the Hydraulic Head comes up and out, After all disconnects have been performed. DO NOT ROTATE the engine after that, Afix a NEW button and a NEW CLIP. Re install. Vroom...

That plug only lets the drips out or is used as a 'Fording' plug. It has a bsp thread, obtainable at any plumbers supplies.

** "..CAREFULL"... !!!**......... Falls about 'Laffi'n !!😡

Please send updates on your situation from time to time..We Are, Actually, Having a 'Crew' come over for our first big event of the year in May. From..Various Eastern Block countries...Help drive some of our trucks in convoy, Camp, Chill, chinwag....Etc..Etc..

Savage looking truck..Nice.

And a thought..Check the 'Lift' of the quill under the bolt atop the Hydraulic Head, (Because IF the button has fallen of the quill there will be a 'stroke' BUT not quite enough to provide the proper injection pressure to start. Once running a truck will run ok, Untill you let the RPM's fall...

The fact it starts well is odd...As that problem occurs when the 'dreaded button' drops off the quill inside the Hydraulic Head....Smaller stroke..less fuel delivery and power at low RPM's., And As cattlerepair man stated.." But what do I know"...

Open the filler cap...fumble around inside.....Remove..the..'Time Bomb' thingy!... juss' kidding..Check the Valve as mentioned previous.

You did say the flow slowed after the first few throws, Well then, That could well be the filters clogging after relaxing. Change those filters for a good consistent flow.

Better than 'Nice', Your truck. Welcome to the site, The hobby, The friendships And advice's , And the events to come.

Your a good guy, Helping out where help is needed. THAT, Is what we all need to have right now..GOOD HEARTS. *** I will edit out the post below, ( Or above ( wherever it shows )). (As,) by some difficult searching I came back to what I wanted to see.,

I have offered my home to orphans and refugees. FROM either side. I wish you well,As do all the chaps here. May this all end soon.

Just Hot wire the + input wire and see if it lights up. (AND what else corresponding to that circuit ). Check the Voltage - IN , - in, the 'supposed' operating position.

HA!....Puzzle all you might..This is a 'losing fuel', supply, or pressure problem?. Hope this > tip < gets you to the root of the fault. Let us know the eventual solution.

Awesome!..That is one huge project you are tackling...But at my time of life,..I wouldn't care to attempt that.

That's ( Old hydraulic cooling oil ) , Is what goes in all our trucks. So We actually have a mix of 'contam' (From Fueled by mistake vehicles at garages and service stations ). Which is CLEAN (and duty paid!) diesel and petrol mix, with the added cut of the cooling oil at 50%. l'urrvli stuff!.