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For clarity/reminder how it is done: - to remove PPD you pull the 2 big leads (and there small one if present) off top post of PPD and attach those 2 instead to each other; bypassing PPD. Repeat for bottom most post's 2 leads . Correct? Am forgetting What do you do with red capped ones on...

that's what I was wondering about the volt drops. I was on terminals. I will try to climb to the PDP for the test spots.... think with it tilted its not got the Passenger door above the huge mud puddle anymore LOL. really rather not climb thru cab while its tilted

hmmmm... confused.. you say to attach 3 leads? (one each to large (+) and (-) ??* ) ... and third one at front of starter motor? *I can look again but I think there is only one large one on solenoid as well as two small)

will shoot for getting a ground strap to add there. Maybe steal it off other LMTV alternator ground for now. Banged on it. No help

long test leads on one battery at one end and, volt meter on other. when hit red button (power on) the 1st of the the two battery (no 12v stuff on it/ older batt) dances between 12v and 10v when trying to start it. The 2cnd battery new in April (also 12v side) does same 12v-10v with...

load tester will arrive this afternoon around 6 or 7pm. I HAVE to use the truck Sat. morning is the issue.

wondered about that... get feeling that one leg gets wired to Lead Acid start/run batts and other leg to a lithium charger*..and that then that goes to the LiPO4 battery Charger might need to be proprietary .. or a proprietary lithium battery with proprietary BMS that limits alt and/or cuts...

cab is now up so at starter solenoid easier. Solenoid (+) would be big heavy lug correct? and ground on starter.. would be one with strap going to chassis? Going at this by myself so will have to do some acrobatics to do as requested. Luckly been doing acrobatics majority of my life...

well after sitting four days after typical daily use.. now mine has done this but never turns starter long enough to "start" (acts like bad battery) Engine tries to move then starter stops. Like yours Plasa; on rare occasion this use to happen then would start. Happen more often if a batt...

what is the lithium relationship to it?

Alternator lithium charge controller?/isolator 24v/48v just came across this... Might be great deal guys-n-gals.... IMHO grab one now at this sale price...

maybe hit up @ckouba he has a M1088 .

did a search for 1088 images etc. came across this video at 1:39 there in the rectangle spot that is sunlit, between the chassis rails, right side, you see what I think is the cable going up. Hope this helps.

Actually yeah.... a new way to approach it. https://electrodacus.com/ thought ya'll might find this interesting

or you could have a CAT dealer de-tune it...... granted check to see if they can do that first; Im not sure if it is possible. Would be a good question for Adept Ape. If so.... would stand to assume an engine made with intent to operate at 465hp/1450FLbs that would last long time if de-tuned...

imho upgrade to a Cummins. There is some threads in here where that is discussed

13yr old tires..... eek.. that may well be your issue. at least their MVT's

ahhhhh. so one could pull their tach signal from there instead of half removing heater to get to that harness?

sounds about right... though the Cummins was a step up from the 3116 and the Brazos was in that 3116 era of the FMTV's right? Does that Cummins exceed the 3126's?

Used Ambulance box and your good to go.... significantly less expensive than expedition boxes and 50x stronger. oh.. and seat belts required in the rear. In mine all habitat seats will be niceish junkyard automotive with belts. Likely Jeep Wrangler rear seats for bench/booth seat and front...