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My delivery from @summitracing was a @theoriginalfluidampr to keep vibrations in check. Should have just done it in the first place. Buttoned up the rest of the front of the motor. If you don’t have this Thexton tool for your power steering, get one. Have been fitting and measuring things for...
Another fun day at the OK Corral! Bolt action swap is in full swing. Secured the motor for trans removal. TH400 is out and on the floor. Vacuum line for the actuator is removed. And the final piece, the valley drain is installed. Came home to a delivery from Summit! 😁. 🇺🇸🇺🇸🥓🥓🥃🥃 #M1010 #cucv
Good thing I like puzzles! 🤪 Transmission cooler lines out in one piece… 😆. Final outcome… cooler lines removed, shift linkage removed, torque converter bolts removed, rear transmission mount bolts removed, cross member bolts loose, 4 out of 6 bell housing bolts removed and last two are loose...
After my Bluetooth driveshafts were called out, I installed the WiFi transfer case app. Pulled it and cleaned up a lot of the caked on dirt off of it. Transmission is next in line 😜 in the process. 🇺🇸🇺🇸🥓🥓🥃🥃 #M1010 #cucv
It’s been a while… been dreading this project. 😱 Let the fireworks 💥 begin. Fixing the rear main, removed the driveshafts, TH00 been peeing on the parking pad. Time for a change, bolt action time! Not a lot of pics… old pan seemed to be seeping at the rubber seal as well as the rear main seeping...
I’ve seen several say the same about going back to stock, I guess if it’s all there and pristine I could see saving it. My DUVAC wiring was hacked with splices and wire nuts and honestly I don’t know if it worked at all when I got the truck. The charging system in the M1010’s seems to have been...
Systematically, there was a wrecking bar that was required to cut off the factory sheath that both bound and protected the wires, a razor blade. Once it was cut off it was just removing the wires no longer in use. Sometimes that was like untangling Christmas lights, but I wanted an end result...
A while back I did finish removing the DUVAC wiring as I know I'll never go back. After working on cars for years, finding a random bundle of wires taped off can be troublesome for someone unfamiliar and can cause hours $$$ of diagnostics. Just some photos of the operation...
I would say that you are on the right path that your issues were created from incorrect wiring. Getting the bottom alternator (12v) checked out at an alternator shop or an auto parts store would be a good start as wiring issues may have let the magic smoke out.
As suggested following the Plan...
First things first are some links:
M1010 Color Coded Diagram
Fuse Box Layout
Second: Is the lower alternator a 12v one? I can't read the numbers on it
Third: The fuse panel should have 12v except for one that is labeled #12 28v
Fourth: The 12v bus is IMG_1535 and the 24v bus is IMG_1537...
The electrical panel in the rear is 24v and fed from the bus bar on the firewall. If stock there would also be 24v to the resister for the glow plugs and 24v to the starter. The DUVAC on the M1010 complicates the situation of the wiring for the alternators but can be resolved fairly easily with...
I would add the alternator output wires for the increased output. As well, I would and did upgrade the ground wires to 6ga 1) from the battery to the rad support and 2) from the rad support to the frame. I upgraded the alternator ground wires to 4ga.
Any time you come across a ground on these...
It's funny how simple the systems are in this build. The head unit is the key piece with a built in amp with 45w RMS x 4. I used the same one in the cab and box.
Music wise... I'm all over the place yet should probably expand more.
I've been happy with the install of my stereo but it was missing something. I ended up adding some kick panels from @cheyennepickup and some @kickeraudio KS speakers to fully use the @sonycaraudiousa head units 200W amp. Much fuller sound in the cab now with 6x9's in the rear and 5 1/4's in the...
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