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All good in the 'hood now. Line has been replaced with one a little longer so I shouldn't have this issue again.
Thanks to Ron for his patience and assistance.
Also, the big update for today- the CTIS is fixed. A line had come off a 90 degree bulkhead fitting. I think it was just too short, so I replaced it with a little extra to give as well. All back up to speed now.
A massive tip of the internet hat to Mr Ronmar. He is incredibly generous...
Yep. I picked up a Ford mirror remote switch and took it apart to decipher its functionality. Once I figured out what was switching which wires, it went pretty smoothly.
Nope, all of my own creation. I had a few slabs of alu laying around for backing plates and put the appropriate holes in them to spread the load on the inside. I located the mirrors pretty far forward on the door to try and tie into the increased structural stability near the hinges but it...
Victron 70A 24>12 converter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BF5BQLA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?smid=A21C4U5X700J66&psc=1
I leave my batteries on and the converter powered up (haven't shut it off since turning it on). It literally draws nothing unless there's a load on it, i.e. I can go out...
I think I found the issue....
Photo taken after while trying to reassemble. The hose was out of the compression fitting. I think it's too short so it's getting replaced with a slightly longer one with fresh fittings. When I bought the truck, this line was off the fitting but I didn't...
Quick update:
My mirrors had always been a little floppy. I made a pair of supports to tie the outside door skin to the inside door skin and that made a world of difference. For others considering the same mirrors, I would recommend mounting them as close to the lead edge of the door as...
The short version is the solenoids click but air fails to flow. Upon shutting it down and unpowering the control solenoid, there is no release of air. It has air to the input side but I am feeling like something in the quick release valve may now not be correctly functioning.
When I...
Had my manual CTIS system working perfectly until a roadtrip last week. After some work using the air compressor to blow air into the PCU, it appears the wiring and switch work I did are all working fine and it's sending and receiving the correct electrical signals to open and close the...
I have a 24 > 12 volt converter that I turned on a long time ago and haven't shut off. Basically zero draw on the system until it's used. I know it's using something but I can tell you empirically that it's right there next to nothing. There's very little downside to using it.
Be sure to leave yourself enough room at full suspension articulation so the tires don't try to occupy space in the box. The walking axles will use a surprising amount of their travel. The camera work leaves a little to be desired, but there are several clips where you can see the rear tires...
Going off of memory (dangerous...), the signal from the PCU pressure sensor goes back in to the CTIS controller box, but I don't remember a wire with that data going out of the controller to the ECU. I am also pretty certain that information would not be available via the ECU.
After a bunch of troubleshooting and narrowing down my fault to (probably) a wiring issue back inside the dash, I now have functional CTIS again. Functionality was restored with 3 switches and re-wiring the PCU solenoids to work manually in the manner which Ronmar documented in his video. It's...
No smoking gun in checking the cross-talk between wires to the PCU. All ohm out as independent. After picking brains and burning up my own all day, I am very inclined to wire up a parallel manual system like Ron has pioneered. It's looking extremely attractive right now.
My motivation to...
I found our trailer on craigslist for ~$15k (yes, pre-covid). Wasn't advocating new, just that they are well built and well featured. They are out there used if you look patiently.
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