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Good info
The Goodyear MV/T and the Michelin XZL are the only way to go, IMO. The old Michelin XML's (lovingly referred to as "May Pops") are best avoided for on road use (especially the older ones). You can literally see them "puff up" along the sidewalls at each of the tread sections...
That's the same a/c unit I have in my cart ! LOL
The first one is going in the cab. I know, everyone insists that the cab needs 60,000 btu as per the Army specs , but I'm a rebel (and this is what I can afford to do and the install is a "wee" bit easier than doing the mechanical a/c). If...
We used to see them come thru the shop occasionally down here. The car would be overheating and puking fluid. So it would get parked in the front yard of the barrio and tossed on blocks. A few years of corrosion would build up in the passages and seal them shut. Then when the car...
Looks corroded but not totally eaten up from the pics (swing my any radiator shop for confirmation). If so, a repair or replace is likely the only option. Even a shop with a good torch man can only do so much, but it's worth a look. If it is just the welds and the passages (flat tubes) are...
Good stuff for sure...
I've never questioned the benefits. It's just that so much that I'd love to do (and in many cases need to be doing) is simply beyond my means. I'm lucky to not be living in the damned truck by now, to be honest. FJB
Good to know, but that was from Lizardskin's site.
I calculated the walls and ceiling as 12x8 or 96 sq/ft x left/right/ceiling = ~300 sq/ft
Front and rear at 8x7 or 56 x front/rear = ~112 sq/ft
~400 sq/ft total for the hab...
By my calculations to do the hab I'd need to cover 430 sq/ft to cover the walls and ceiling.
Lizzardskin says I need 18 gallons.
So about two grand to coat the hab.
To do the cab is somewhere around 180 sq/ft and about $750.
Not within my budget...
Yeah, I added a USB 3 charging port inside the cooler. But I only use it when the unit is either pulling from the truck or solar. As you said, the damned thing will stop charging if even one battery gets low.
I tapped it back to a single battery.
Seemed like a nice place to set your phone...
The batteries are independent on that side of the box. They are not in series (so not 24v) and not even in parallel. The unit will in fact run off 12/24v (even solar) thru it's internal controller. I just didn't want to push a charge thru that controller w/o knowing what it might fry.
I...
Yeah, the AAR shelters are horrible thermal bridges.
How much did it take to do the inside of the hab?
I have an inch of dense foam insulation going on the walls behind the paneling, but I'm not ruling out another layer.
Disassembling the unit to access the batteries got old the first time I did it. ;)
I added a couple SAE ports so I can charge each battery w/o having to plug the unit in and run it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XLK4CH3
If money were no object, I'd throw everything at it. I'd have someone spray it with Lizardskin then have them lay down Killmat and have an all-leather and ostrich skin custom, dash and interior installed. I'd insist on all the installers being all hot, blonde, natural born virgin females...
Not sure.
The 8ah batteries put out a total of about 20a (a little over 10a per battery). Just a guess, but I suspect that it might cook off a "Low Voltage" alarm on the controller before the charging kicks in. While the system is pretty self contained once it reaches "Charging" state, it...
My other cooler weighs 150lbs empty.
It gets a crane ride into the trailer when it's loaded.
;)
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-15-000-beer-cooler.203510/
I don't recommend many things, but this one hit home so I'll share...
A couple months back I picked up one of these little coolers for drinks and snacks in the cab. I looked at reviews and settled on the VEVOR branded cooler based on Amazon reviews (I suspect that they are all mostly the...
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