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I'm not a big fan of the having the outlet there. I ran an extension from the outlet to the top of the dash. Eventually I plan on deleting the OEM location though. Passengers (especially German Shepherds) tend to knock anything plugged into the kick panel loose. :)

It appears to be a blank slate inside (just insulated). He has it for sale on FB for $18.5 (in AZ). https://www.facebook.com/groups/2154401034884361/posts/3665781317079651

Yep, old military P-8D

1982 Ford C-600 (P-8D fire truck) Saw it on FB Market

Yeah, N1511. Must have had the 260 swapped out. Bummer. Should be OK as long as it's running dual batteries (and not quad). Might start keeping an eye out for a 200a just in case (pretty common). :(...

As to tools, what you don't or can't fly with you can always FexEx/UPS them ahead. Some of the basic heavy stuff I just purchased at the pickup point before returning home with my truck.

And I HIGHLY recommend that you do in fact trip the battery disconnect at night (every night) as long as you own the truck. These trucks typically all suffer from a 12v vampiric drain (and "they come at night.....mostly"). You can also do this via the switch on the driver side kick...

The external manual "battery disconnect" switch (aft of the battery box) has a place for a small lock. *it can be defeated with a hammer, of course (but anyone determined to enter or start the truck will do so...keys on not) *pulling a few of the key circuit breakers is the...

There is a 12v cig lighter outlet on the passenger kick panel

That came out clean !

Likely more productive if this were it's own discussion and not spamming up the ECO Hud thread again. But I'm out in any event.

I'll dig something up for ya on the fluid dynamic aspect. As far as the corrosive nature, that dates back to when I had a radiator shop. The supplier we used for cores (Modine) warned about running straight antifreeze (opposed to diluted). The literature provided at the time...

OK, that's cool !

I'll try to better denote my sarcasm and exaggeration in the future. Now I'll go remove and weight the 10 lb steel CTIS covers <-----sarcasm and exaggeration ;p

Not to offend those who do/did... Not in a MILLION years. As ballast for a farm tractor to help keep the vehicle from tipping over, sure. Beyond that, nope. My reasons are based on fluid dynamics. But if people "think" it helps, that's all that matters. :) *and if you do...

Yeah, with 5 lbs of CTIS hoses and valves asymmetrically on one side , 10 lbs metal CTIS covers with non-symmetrical cuts......I'm realistically not expecting to ever have "balance"... That said, I have zero vibration on my A1R truck at 60mph. <knocks on wood> I don't plan on...

The big draw of ECO hubs (at least for me) is that it's something that can be done in the driveway in about the same time it would take just to service the hubs. And it's just as easy to revert back to stock. Also factor in the price at around $2500 shipped Where 3:07's will...

Yeah, sorry I wasn't specifying your install. I was talking to the OP. I have Pacifica seats. They have their own recover on the seat. I opted to use the OEM female receiver that is actually bolted to the truck floor As I said, ymmv Huge fan of your build, btw :)

In case the engine has an issue, and Yeah, I typed gladhand...and went back to add rear (but brain farted when I did). He'd have figured it out, though. LOL

If you are animatedly opposed to being ejected thru the windshield, you may want to stick with keeping the female end attached to the actual truck and not the seat itself. ymmv There are lots of aftermarket seatbelt and harness solutions (especially in the racing world) but be aware of...