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I knew the tape wasn't compatible. Didn't know the plug was threadless. Hm...
ETA: A photo shows that it has a philips head screw in the center. Is this an expandable plug? You turn the screw and the plug expands to fill the hole?
Ok, a new plug makes sense. What are the odds that the threads in the plastic tank will be ok?
Usually I wrap plugs like this in teflon tape or something but I'm not sure if diesel would eat that up.
Question:
I will drop my fuel tank (old style) this winter to repair some fuel line leaks.
If I remove the drain plug, what are the odds that it will properly seal up again when I reinstall the plug? Should I find another way to drain the tank?
Thanks.
I think I've found the problem. I observed drips under the truck. Fuel is weeping from a pair of lines near the top of the tank, wicking over and dripping down off of the transfer case. It's definitely diesel and not ATF or any other fluid.
Looking at the diagram on p. 2-113 of the -280-20-1...
I agree that the slow speed is probably what prevents damage. The other thing to consider is that these trucks are aging and may need extra coddling.
I have read some incidents of 809 series trucks sending the fan into the radiator when NOT fording, just ordinary driving.
I cringe at having to...
Looks like the old ones are still available:
Fuel Tank Shell for EARLY Humvee M998 A0/A1; 2910-01-263-3224 5582606 12338588 | eBay
I'll investigate upgrading the parking brake to the wheels before buying the old style tank though.
Yes. There's a procedure in one of the TM's. I followed the procedure and it worked perfectly.
Let me see if I can find it...
ETA: Here- TM-9-2320-280-20-2.pdf (steelsoldiers.com) page 4-98.
I have a *very* intermittent problem that is beginning to rear its head. (Engine is a 2005 6.5L installed in an early M998 paired up with the 3-speed).
Twice, when cold, my truck has exhibited a surge. One of those times, in the driveway, it actually revved up and stalled. I simply cranked it...
I'm not sure if even the fording kit includes anything that would solve this problem. My understanding is that the kit is mostly air pressure valves that put a slight positive pressure on the axles and drivetrain to keep the water out and of course, the snorkel gear. Give the increasing scarcity...
I'm near Annapolis. I don't want mine to end up in the scrap heap. I'd like someone to rebuild it and use it. I'd even let it go for free if someone came to pick it up.
@BigRig379 Dude, why couldn't you be closer to the east coast?
The output shaft bearings in my T138 were howling so I replaced the entire t-case because I didn't feel skilled enough to reassemble the t-case and get all of those important things like preload set correctly. I would have loved to...
@patracy Your first paragraph dissuades me of this endeavor. Everything in the second paragraph endears me to it.
The first paragraph will probably win out. I will ask the seller if she's aware of a parts cache that the deceased may have had for this thing.
I've been offered a Ferret and it's not too far away. The usual "ran when parked" nonsense. The owner had passed away and the daughter heard about me as a potential buyer.
I realize that these are British. Since they were built up until 1972-ish, parts may still be available.
How stupid of...
If I understand correctly, the HMMWV fuel tank (especially the old style) has no kind of baffles in it.
The fuel gauge oscillates quite a bit during acceleration and braking.
When you get down to 1/4 tank or so, is it normal that you might occasionally grab some air as the fuel sloshes around...
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