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I had a starter on an 831 body twist just like that due to the starter cutout circuit not working. Starter got spun so fast the commuter flew apart and tore up the inside of the starter and twisting the starter body out of alignment. Might be what happened to your starter too.

As LITD said, use Deoxit in S6 and S8 and exercise those switches with the set off.

PM sent

The stator resistances are really low. 0.3731 ohms to 0.5047 ohms per winding. Any sort of poor contact due to corrosion, oxidation is going to cause your meter to display flakey readings. You need to make sure you have clean, solid connections from your meters probes to the stator leads. Most...

What happens when you set S6 to the 3 o'clock position and then start the set. Does it still trip OL or SC?

When doing the resistance reading across 5 & GND and then 6 & GND both leads must be removed from the VR. Once removed then measure from lead 5 & GND and then lead 6 & GND. When testing the stator output pairs all the leads should be removed from TB3 first.

A few people on here have successfully converted 804's to single phase 120/240.

That info is in the back of the -24 TM. This is for the 802A and 803A

You might want to reseat the wire harness connector on the coolant temp sensor. Then clear the DCS Fault and try running it again.

A bit of an oddity... In your picture R14 is marked as a 50 ohm resistor. Multiple versions of the TM that I've checked indicate it's a 40 ohm resistor. Seems either would work fine in this application. To get a replacement 50 ohm version that fits right in is available here ---> 50 Resistor

R14 would have nothing to do with your batteries being drained. R14 is just a current limiting resistor in the field flashing circuit. I can look tomorrow for a replacement source.

Since the Exciter ohms out OK I'd say the R14 resistor is bad.

Relay Layout

Based on those readings it would appear that R14 is defective. Do a couple of other tests before we condemn R14. With the set OFF and Dead Crank in OFF do the following. 1) Remove the wires from the AC Voltage Regulator terminals 1 & 3. Label if needed so they don't get mixed up. 2) Measure...

OK now take the following DC voltage measurements. Hook you meters negative lead to the ground stud above the relays on the back wall. With the set running check for the following voltages and reply what you measure for each test. 1) Measure the DC voltage at R14 terminal 1 with S1 held in the...

So you do NOT get any AC voltage at the outlet with the set running and S1 in START? Please confirm.

OP had posted " runs like a top everything checks out on gauges except the battery charger gauge shows running on discharge side while running " I assume when they said "everything" it included the AC Voltage gauge.

Guy, Yes, Saw that S1 was mis-wired, set running but no AC

Have you downloaded the -24 TM? It has a test procedure for the AC voltage regulator in it. The set was built with one two voltage regulator systems. TRC or Libby. Be sure to use the correct test procedure in the TM.