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Gotta get the GC changed so the engine speeds up to support the load.

The Mecc Alte head is internally regulated via a capacitor.

That would be high humidity. Some people have had luck removing the main board from the inverter, drying it in an oven and then sealing the potentiometers to keep the moisture out. Heads to swap in need a J609B configuration. Most buy the gen head from Mecc Alte. It's a 4.2 kva head. Ive...

No schematics or trouble shooting info for the inverter. It's a pluck and chuck item. High humidity can cause issues with them. Have you had high humidity lately while you've been working with it? The rest of the generator is pretty solid. I have a supposidly good used inverter on it's way...

Sounds like the inverter is reporting an OV fault to the Fault Monitor which in turn is causing K12 to turn on. Killing power to the GC. The inverters in the 831's are trouble prone. Most people have problems with OL or SC faults.

OK that's normal.

The 147 volts indicates the GC has no power or isn't working. Should be 178 ish volts if idling properly with no load.

The problem is the Overvoltage fault the Fault monitor is reporting is causing the K12 Fault Relay to turn on which kills power to the GC. No power at F-G. K12 Is the leftmost relay behind the gauges. If S1 is in Run and the led inside K12 is on while its running it indicates the fault monitor...

Kurt here... No power at the outlet may be due to the tiny circuit breaker on the GFCI is tripped. Also the GFCI contacts can be flakey. Sometimes I have to tap the Reset button mine to get juice to the outlet. If the meter shows AC voltage the outlet should get power assuming breaker and...

Test the VR per the -24 TM and post up the results of each test step. The 804 was made with two different VR systems. Libby and TRC. Be sure to use the correct test procedure in the TM.

A bit of info what keeps K1 closed. The CR3, S5-2, S5-3, K8-OL, K8-SC, K1-11, K1-12 path to ground is the latching path that keeps K1 closed when you release S5. When you put S5 in OPEN it breaks this path, K1 opens as well as the K1-11, K1-12 switch in K1. The other side of the K1 coils gets...

Here is the circuit from the -24 TM when you lift and HOLD the contactor switch UP. The GREEN circuit path should have 0 volts on it and the Pink-ish should have 24 volts DC on it. This applies 24 volts to the coil in K1. K1-X get 24 volts and 0 volts to K1-Y. The causes the contactor K1 to...

That method is for cheapo gensets (portable big box generators such as like Generac, Coleman, TroyBilt, Homelite, etc) that have lost their residual magnetism in the rotor. They have no means of building up the residual magnetism to get the AC generation working enough for their voltage...

The problem could be trash in the tank getting sucked up by the pickup tube or anything from the pickup tube all the way thru to the fuel return line. Just work your way thru the fuel system either cracking fittings or disconnecting fittings and see if there is reasonable fuel flow from the...

This line....,

Here is the path of the START signal from S1 to the K2 starter relay. There should be about 24 volts all along this path when S1 is in START. S1-7------TB5-14------K12-8---K12-2-----K16-9---K16-6-------S7-1---S7-2-----TB5-20--------J6-20---P6-20-----K2-X2

Figuring out why the starter isn't engaging will require tracing the START signal from S1 to the starter relay coil K2. I'll post up a sequence of measurements to check that path.

When testing resistors and other 2 leaded components one of the leads needs to be disconnected from the circuit before measuring. If left connected other components in the circuit can cause the readings to be way off.

My understanding is that the spherical nut on the bottom of the rod should stay in contact with the black throttle arm.

I would suggest adjusting the rod length per the TM and see if you can achieve 5/16" gap at no load and have it remain running. Maybe a tiny bit wider if the magnet grabs it.