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After some additional measuring I settled on dropping 3/8" in length from the middle of the link. Pictures below are after the cut/weld/paint modification. Everything works perfectly. I have no idea where the variance was but both forward stops hit at exactly the same time now and the back sits...
The closest I've seen is a Fuller FSO-6406A. Never have been able to find one to compare side by side though. The non-overdrive FS version is easier to find and can be converted to an FSO with off the shelf parts.
While reading through old in-tank pump threads I ran across one that showed the dimple drilled out and the electrical connector removed. I've searched and searched but I can't seem to locate it again. Does anyone recall that thread by chance?
I saw that the seat has built in stops but mine is still resting against the corner brace in the cab. I had planned to add a small amount of material to the stop area to kick the back forward just a bit. Apparently it's been hitting for some time as there is a small divot worn in the seat back...
Something is definitely goofy with mine then. It's 3/8" too long in the down position and around 1" too long in the upright position. Maybe the tab on the seat back was welded in the wrong position or this seat was pieced together from two or more.
Worst case scenario I guess it's cut and weld...
When you have time could you tell me the overall length of the link? I can't find any local trucks to look at. Mine is right at 14-7/8" overall.
The part numbers show none available at the usual sources.
I've started working on my seats and run across something odd. The connecting link on the outside of the passenger bench appears to be too long. When I purchased the truck I noticed that the link was bend outward. Simple fix so I never paid any attention to it. The more I looked at it though the...
Now days I check every new part regardless of who it came from. Sad that we have to do that. For example...
Bosch now moves their manufacturing from country to country depending on where they get the best pricing and tax incentives. They will literally shutter a plant and fire up in another...
Final post on this one. C.S. Osborne #B1-3 grommets are in fact a dead match for the factory installed pieces. My completed installation in shown below. The rope is a 3/8" twisted poly but I haven't found a color match for it yet. The search continues... =)
Honestly, the best crack prevention is driving. As the sidewalls flex it forces OZ barrier chemicals and natural oils to the surface of the tire.
When I had my last MDT the 19.5's were very stiff. Without a load the sidewalls would barely flex at all. Every 4-6 weeks I would air down the tires...
I'm only a sample size of one but I've even been using it on rubber parts that I'm sealing up for long term storage. It evaporates MUCH slower than Armor All and other that I've tried. Also far less messy than the tire dressings that I've tried over the years. Just hard to find at a reasonable...
You can find them in this thread. If you have any problems I can email them to you.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/air-o-matic-air-assist-steering-instructions-scanned-blue-prints-12132493-12430289.122674/
I've gleaned so much information from previous members posts that I'll never be able to repay it. If I can't find the answer to something using the search and I'm going to invest the time and money to track something down the least I can do is share the information for future reference.
Small...
Received the C.S. Osborne #B1-3 grommets and the setting die today. Spot on match if anyone needs to match these grommets in the future. I'll get the missing grommet installed and move the center rear rope to the new position tomorrow. Figure I'll replace the missing rear center twisted rope...
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