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Worked in the home shop last evening. Machining the OD of adapter plates, and welding inner and outer plates together .
Finished 48 pieces….
Dropped the plates to CNC, this morning for drill tap..
The heat treat on the hubs are due back today, (over a week at heat treat). They get washed and...
Did some more experimenting today, tapped in to the crank sensor wiring . Did get a frequency reading, however the tach didn’t like it. Went back to the ac on the alternator. Works as long as the dash light are on. Will check out the ecu pins when I get more time.
Might be the best way.
Did some more testing today. I don’t know if everyone but me knows how to enter low range in mode.
On my truck you push mode, then use the down arrows to select 1st. At that point you feel a shift. Much lower than the default starting gear in mode. The speeds I got were: 6mph at 1350...
The tach settings were set at 15. The jury is still out though, I drove the truck today and the tach was fluctuating some
Almost like a bad ground? Funny thing when I turned on the dash lights it’s works good. Will keep you informed.
I haven’t had mine reprogrammed as of yet, I would like to. That would fix the speedometer reading half of what it should.
I would like to bring the shifts down 200 or 300 rpm. That would be nice. Short answer no not required.
I will look to see if I have that?? I did see the polarity protection device. Got to check the lugs on that today make sure they are tight
And clean. This truck doesn’t have master shutoff switches or any kind of outside start switch. Will post the tach settings I used.
LBCD, low battery cut off??
I have an open ac terminal on the regulator?
Ok so todays monkey work. I took the ac terminal as a tach signal . Used a 1 amp glass fuse in-line and wired it to the tach.
Used my scanner hooked to the diagnostics plug and monitored rpm. I entered off set...
Ok I’ve spent hours looking for a specific diagram for tach hook up. I don’t really want to tap the alternator.
Where can I get the signal from to crank sensor ? Inside the cab??? This is an 2001 A1.
The A0 seems pretty straightforward.
Thanks. Mike
The outside caps are aluminium, they have apx. 3/8” step that goes into the drive hub. Pretty durable design. The Allen bolts only
Hold the two pieces from separating, the step takes any side load or impact.
The drive hubs are 4140 heat treated steel..
Thanks guys. Great support from this group! Can’t wait for some feedback. You’re going to be surprised at how much better you trucks drive . I used to hate the first few shifts, the problem is gone completely! Now the torque converter dampens the shift,
No more neck break, spill your...
I’m in NE Indiana, and it’s been nasty cold wet etc. My tests to date have been dirt roads, paved streets pulling loads on trailer.
I’m sure when it gets a little nicer I might go North to Grayling Mi. to test it a little.
Your turbo should normalise for elevation changes, so you shouldn’t...
Availability to be announced. First 10 sets will be ready soon. Tested on M1078 will fit others also.
At the request of moderators please use this thread for sales related questions. Let me know if you have interest
in a set by posting here . Thank you!
For more information and ordering...
Ok everyone, please don’t ask about purchasing on the general forum. It’s ok to ask technical questions, how parts are made etc.
Just started a thread in the vendors for sale section, if you have sales questions I will try to answer them in that section.
If you have interest in a set of hubs...
In the past I’ve run 1/8” toe in, also with good results. The tire size and the length of the tubes needed to get around them
made me settle on the 3/8” Not saying it’s correct but it has got to be better than 1 3/8”. 🙂🙂
Just for fun today I checked the toe on my 2001 m1078. Using 54” of 1x1 box tubing on each side, pushed up to the tire. I measured 1 3/8” of toe in. I thought
that seems like a lot of toe in, so I changed it to 3/8” toe in. Had to adjust the steering link to align the steering wheel...
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