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Trailer has been serving me well. Wanted to come back to share a GREAT link I found for parts on the brake actuator system. https://www.hawktet.com/product-category/brakeactuators/brake-actuator-parts/

I found it on Amazon & wanted to come share in this old post; https://amzn.to/3sB5Yso

If you are able to rotate the pump 90 deg, you can't be in the fork. When you rotate that far, it comes out. The thud you are hearing is the regulator hitting the engine block because it is not lined up properly with the hole. You will need to work at it to get it in the fork. It is not easy...

No big deal. They're not very similar. The 016B injection pumps are much more beefy & the way the fuel rate is adjusted is much different. The LPW injection pumps are more similar to the Yanmar ones on the smaller MEP units.

If you're certain you're in the fork, center it as the TM says & if it's still stubborn, try prying it a bit. Maybe that unit is just tighter or my idea of yanking it out with my hand is different than yours. The key is pulling it straight out so the main body doesn't bind where it fits to the cam.

I actually just realized I don't have a good picture of my trailer. Here is a link to the post in my thread when i finally mounted the generator to the trailer; https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m116a3-fix-up-conversion-thread.188781/post-2220488 You can see it also at the beginning of one...

Dang, that adjustable channel factory part looks good. I looked all over to find that. I ended up having mine made at the local trailer shop. What is the height of the ring at the highest adjusted point?

There is nothing that can come apart on the injection pump unless it really is messed up bad. less than 1% chance it is that. Are you sure that the injection pump is in the governor fork? If it isn't, you need to finagle it back in. Best way to tell if it is still in place is if the throttle...

I have mine flipped around. The flap will open, but I put a cord across it.

After letting the truck sit for a bit, I tried again. I tried XC mode & the wheel valve sealed up after about 5 seconds of staying open. I have determined that the problem is between the passenger rear lug port & the port that is behind the wheel. I used one of the nuts off the spare that...

Thanks!

I rebuilt & cleaned everything in the injection pump along with the fuel system. Generator starts right up now! Again, thanks for the help with this. VERY easy injection pump to service yourself.

Finally made the video showing my tire changes.

I did try the XC mode before with no different result but I may try it again just to see. I didn't know of there being two different part numbers. Though, there have been 3 different wheel valves on that passenger rear & all have had the same issue so I'm thinking it is not a wheel valve issue.

The fuel bowls on these SUCK to bleed the air out of. I gave up on the screws on the two I worked on. Also, I found the arrow for the valve to be open was backwards or I just misunderstood it.

Removed the drivers side wheel valves to rebuild them. Even with PB Blaster, heat, and care, I still broke 3 of the 8 screws holding the wheel valves together. My friend took them to his machine shop to drill out & tap the holes. All fixed. Before I got them back, I had one spare valve. I...

Yes, made sure this was clean as well.

It is a new, green controller. It was sold as a new controller only for A0 trucks. No modified sensor installed that I know of.

I have traced every single line from the compressor to the wheels to confirm they are clear by blowing them out individually. I doubt that anything is plumbed incorrectly because the system tries to do what it is supposed too. It will fill & deflate the tires. If it did not do that, I would...