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Sorry I don't have the pinouts handy. In some notebook from that year somewhere.

So in the end I did get all this working. I did two things: In order to conclusively figure out the pinouts between the different connectors, I got a 5935-01-587-7966 which if you look on the bay which is e some people are selling. It's like a rosetta stone for this problem. These were intended...

So just to tie a bow on this, because nobody likes cliffhanger threads - with all the various uncertainty, I decided to not risk-it with the generator. Instead, I solved my problem another way: I floated the other 240V service (unbonded the neutral), installed two-pole ocpds on what is now two...

Thanks Ronmar, I am sure that's in the TM but you just saved me a ton of time.

Just out of idle curiosity, how did this get sorted out? I have the opposite identical problem, I can get the container on a hard road 150ft from where it needs to be, across sand, and all I've got is a LMTV. I don't want to drag it for fear of tearing it up.

When I say solenoid, I mean the high-amp solenoid/contactor that is twinned with the starter. It's one unit I believe, the starter+solenoid, but I have never tried to tear one down. Tangentally, I want the truck to be original. If something is wrong, I'll repair it. Just need to find out what it is.

The start relay on the fuse panel presumably. That's where it sounds like it is coming from. The first time this issue happened for me, it was 2am in a blizzard on a 2000 mile trip. I had to call a truck out to run enough air to get the cab up enough because my manual pump is broken. It started...

Fast forward 4 more years, and I am having this exact issue on my A0.

Impact gun can help here if you have clearance to get the tool on the crank. As a generality, something about the hammering always seems to work better than just pulling. pneumatic, whatever. I like the big milwaukee electric impact for these kinds of things.

I also use a 5kw heater from amazon, about a hundred bucks, to up the load on my MEP803a when I'm running it light. Works great. Bonus, heat.

Thanks for the clarification. L1/L2/L3/N to Ground is what I meant to write. If I pull the bonding, I would expect them all to be discontinuous relative to ground, but not each other.

So, this is what I think I am going to do when I am at the site next. I'll remove the neutral bonding connector on/behind the load board and check for continuity between N/L1/L2/L3 and ground. Finding none and with the generator floated, I'll run it and see how the voltages come out to ground...

So, the breakers seem to be rated for straight 240V (not 120/240V split phase), which is good. The part that is bothering me now is the voltage regulator (AVR). I'm concerned there will be problems if it depends on measuring phase to ground during operation. I notice it has 120V sense leads on...

It is as Scoobyshep says, about the bond. Remember neutral was a hot until you bonded it to something. That is what makes it neutral, being bonded. It's arbitrary what you bond. In terms of the onboard electrics, my understanding is that they run off the battery / DC alternator, so the control...

240/240 15kva isolation transformer is ~$1300. And serves no purpose at all if the L1/L2/L3/N studs are fully isolated on the MEP803a. But are they? That's the mystery.

Thanks, that's helpful. Isolation transformer of this size is costly, obviously, hence my desire to avoid it unless it's necessary. If it is required, then that is what has to happen, but I don't want to put one in for no reason.

These concerns are exactly why I am asking.

It matters in this application, because I am switching with another service which is 240V to ground, bonded, hot/neutral. When I transfer I don't want phase to ground potential to change. Hence my desire to just bond L3 to ground.

That results in an ungrounded system - I'll produce 240V, but in reference to nothing. I require 240V to ground, hot/neutral, 2-wire. Edit: Or rather, I'll produce -120 to +120 if N is bonded to ground. EIther way, I wind up with hot/hot not hot/neutral.

I have a MEP-803A and for various reasons need to produce "european" style 240V, in my case, 240V single phase, to ground. I have reviewed the TMs, etc, and my understanding is that if I put the MEP in 120/240 single-phase mode, remove the neutral bond on N if it is there, and then bond L3 to...