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I can post the manual if you want? Also, probably best money I spent in terms of troubleshooting. I know smaller agencies have a 'cut the wires, so the lights don't flash' way of removing equipment from emergency vehicles, and this was a former FD truck, so I suspected it was a cut wire. Well...

Gotta say some of the best money spent so far... re: ABS reader. Pointed me right to the drivers side rear wheel.. I decided to trace wiring before I messed with the ECU/controller... and .... well... Knowing how small agencies are when it comes to decommissioning emergency vehicles...

That's a damn good question. When I bought mine back in January or so, they were all over Amazon. Now it's like they don't exist... and searching isn't working, since 1/2" is a standard drive profile, everything I'm finding is for that, and not the actual square bit.

Brand new in box. Came with full manual and install guide/kit. Still had that offgassing fresh plastic smell. :D Ebay. Guy had it listed for ~200 and I offered 180. Not cheap, but if I took it to a cummins dealer or anyone who might have one, I'd be looking at 2x that in fuel and hourly costs.

screws are standard 1/4-20. I used stainless security screws in mine. Prevent the casual thief from walking away with them.

it'll work in a pinch but the head is rounded and will eventually round out the square hole. Get the proper socket/bit

Too expensive? 7" Round LED Headlights https://a.co/d/9nxwrhj

I'm necroing this post with a slight correction. A=curb side (passenger) B=Road side (driver) S2b 04 would indicate drivers side sensor fault, not passenger. Just got the Haldex reader.... exact same issue here.... all the stored codes, cleared them all and S2B 04 is the remaining code...

Something came in the mail.. I can read my ABS codes now.

Found the elusive Haldex ABS code reader .. and put it to work. Took 30 seconds to find the reported issue.... Now I gotta look up the ABS manual and see where that corresponds to and check wiring.

~7MPG isn't bad at all, all things considered. Most roadgoing RVs at that size are pushing 8-10 MPG tops, so...

I keep bouncing back and forth if I wanna do that.. and I keep thinking it just adds complexity and is another point of failure. There's a few things an engine can run without but coolant isn't one of them.

A full truck greasing (including bearings) should use most of that tub.

Leaking as in not holding pressure when being used. Buy 35LB pail, it's a lot more cost effective.

I looked at those, but I want a 'buy once, cry once' tool. Lots of so-so reviews, or 'used for 2 tubes and it leaks now' kinda stuff..

Also, 35lbs of goo showed up... It matches the Milwaukee M18 grease gun that came earlier in the week. (Not mine, same thing)

I've been looking at reefers since I just re-priced insulation - and it looks like it's gonna be cheaper to BUY a reefer van body than it would be to insulate the body I have. Go figure. So, I was concerned about ventilation, since reefers are buttoned up pretty good. ChatGPT to the rescue..

Fixed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXGKCPN7

I bought this one, err rather the previous model of that.. Does some basic stuff. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXGKCPN7