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I cut a wiring harness, in 2 places, then had to splice it back together... https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/the-weeniewagun-v3.205898/page-3#post-2516106

FD removed the blackout light to install a siren speaker. I got a fire truck airhorn that I was gonna put in the same spot, but needed to open the hole a bit. I checked both sides and.... there was room.... to miss the wiring harness that was there.... .....until there wasn't..... because...

N.O. , closed when pushed.

Looks like them Duke boys are at it again..

It's definitely coming from the engine compartment. I just meant I can hear it in the cab, not that it's originating in the cab. Sorry for not clarifying.

Heard in cab. Have not tried the tube method to narrow down where the sound is coming from though I probably should. Seems most present at idle, and under load at RPM. Above idle in Neutral it almost disappears. https://youtube.com/shorts/1CrzsTXPDNA Other vehicles I've had with that noise...

Make sure the switch at the end of the transfer case lever isn't stuck. It will do cause it to stall if it is.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/the-weeniewagun-v3.205898/post-2515233 Finished my 3 week long effort to add steps. Ugh.

Wanted some steps similar to fmtv. Everything I could find was either too costly, or not built well enough. I tried building steps with all thread.... nope.. wanted to bend inward. I figured I'd use a crossover chain attachment..... nope... even worse... not tight enough... So I left the...

I drove my M934 from Bragg to Lewis.. ~3000 miles.... Replaced all fluids, did as good of a check as I could. Lost a tire in MN I think it was, and had to bypass air dryer in OH because of a stuck blow off valve...Also had numerous air line failures. Anything you think of that can fail, fix...

There should be wood between the truck frame and the box frame. Yes. Wood. It acts as a cushion and allows flexing. Aluminum tears, and doesn't really flex. There's a reason the frame on military boxes is steel, even when other parts, like the skin, are aluminum.

Yes and no. My M934 had same layout and engine, so it would be identical in terms of filtration, but I don't have pics of what I did years ago. I used a different base back then. I'll grab pics of what I do on my 923A2, which will be slightly different....but same general concept applies.

Keep in mind the 7587 has increased filtration capability (4 micron vs the 20 micron you had on there), and if there's junk in the tank, it may clog quicker, despite being 2x the size. Personally, I'd rather change a filter than deal with replacing a pump..

https://ph.baldwinfilters.com/baldwin/en/product/baldwin-spin-on-lube-filters/b7700 Baldwin B7700 https://www.amazon.com/Baldwin-B7700-Heavy-Spin-Filter/dp/B0015RMLJ0 $16.59 Ea

Yup, been that way since I was a wee lad as well.

What's the CAT filter number? Baldwin is usually pretty high quality and significantly less expensive. Get out of the city. It's not going to get any better.

To a properly aimed headlight, even more so if it's a projector with a sharp cutoff, that 1* is the difference between seeing fine and being blinded. :cool: I think we're talking past each other at this point.... or picking at nits, heh. Easy fix - don't stare at the bright light... Look at a...

You do realize the center is pointing straight forward toward the camera, while the ones on the side are pointed outwards, off axis, right? :p You'll notice you can see much more detail on the first 2, where the 3rd one washes things out. Refraction/reflection changes based on wavelength. Half...

AKShUalLy... Blue can cause eye strain. It's easily picked up by the eyes and seen as glare.. For driving, and in most situations, a neutral/natural white is much preferable to a cool white. Sunlight is generally around 5000K-6000K, depending on what they define as 'daylight'..... I'm just...

You must be forgetting who you're talking to... :ROFLMAO: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/technoweenie-educational-series-vehicle-lighting.201328/ To nitpick, you don't want ANY blue light, you want white light, generally between 4300K and 5000K, although most current LEDs push 6000K...