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What will cause the pump to not put more fuel in until the truck slows down to 55mph on grades? It does fine once fuel is applied and even accelerates up the grades (minor), it just slows down first even with the pedal to the floor.
Took the truck for the first real drive since turning up the fuel and the gov springs. It's awesome to be able to drive at least 70mph finally. Does pretty good on grades too, though it does confuse me a teeny bit. It will slow down on grades even with the pedal floored until it hits 55mph or so...
Thanks for that info, I was wondering how to turn up the boost. I can't wait to get my EGT and Boost gauges in on wed, too bad it'll have to wait until the weekend to install them though.
I was rereading the thread from the beginning, does anyone have pics of their timing pins so that I can go back to a referenced point? I'm at least going to undo what I did earlier
Well that was a fail, gonna have to reset it back to what to was and figure out how to set proper timing marks on the crank and then figure out where timing is at right now.
Well that was a fail, gonna have to reset it back to what to was and figure out how to set proper timing marks on the crank and then figure out where timing is at right now.
ooops, wrong thread
Thanks for the link, I wasn't sure if the 94-98 was the right year range and was about to ask. I'll order those hopefully in a couple days when I also order the EGT and boost gauge.
I suspected that was the case, I'll have to see where I can find that kit then. I only adjusted the springs to get to 2600-3000 so I could improve highway driving. Hopefully today I can get my timing adjusted to reduce EGTs as well.
Another easy way (and free) is to measure the circumference of the damper, which is 30.5625 for mine, divide by 360 for the measurement per degree and then multiply by the number of degrees you want to change the timing. I'm just going to do 8* for a total of 16*. That equates to rotating mine...
I finally pulled the trigger and increased my fuel. I increased gov springs by 2 turns, max load screw by 2.5, and excess fuel by 3. I wanted to adjust the rack travel as well, but I've got one of those tamper proof screws holding the cover on and need to figure out how to remove it first. All...
OK, I wasn't sure if the IP shaft was splined, keyed, or tapered. At least tapered we can adjust timing without removing the whole cover. Now I just have to find the tools since all I have is the standard gear puller, I'll look at HFs steering wheel puller next time I'm in town.
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