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From factory it takes a rubber gasket/seal/grommet, just put on dry and no extra sealant. Knowingly this is a problem area, especially after the wheel got rusty, there. Since the nut is on the inside you will have to demount- and disassemble the wheel in order to fix the issue. For years I...

It's been changed. Posting a link and info about a future, active auction is OK. But then any form of collusion is not allowed! Auction Postings: Please abide by the following rules concerning the posting of auction information in the forums: • You may post links to auctions. However, you MUST...

Aha... just discovered Clinto's 20 GMVR multimedia thread, here... Great photos; keep them coming!

Pics - or it didn't happen...(!?)

Moved.

Actual pictures? Or just images from a TM (which then turned out to be from a 5-ton with the 20K Garwood + level wind) ? (-> read that thread linked in post #2)

Really wish someone could post a picture of it, here. At least there should be a TM covering that?

Use a torch and apply some heat (<250F) to that sprag unit inner race. It will expand and slide right off.

These don't stick out... https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/any-easy-way-to-get-pins-out-of-door-hinges.123685/post-1542455

Why? If you mean the input shaft itself, it has nothing to do with removing the front output assembly in order to get access to the sprag unit. Unlike its smaller cousin (the M35s T-case) you may have to pull the input companion flange (4) first, before that housing can come off. (I've never...

That's correct; it's the seal for the T-case rear output.

That seal mounts from the outside, so yes it can be pried out and a new one installed after just removing the output flange. Obviously, having the bearing/seal retainer housing also pulled out, makes it all much easier; especially if you have a small shop press. There is no need to drain the...

FM5-125, latest update from Feb 2001 (supersedes FM5-125, Oct 1995) Already added to the "TMs for Towing" compilation thread.

Here is another option, based on FMTV wheels: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-deuce-this-week.67703/post-2062688

Old thread with very good contributions, here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/official-deuce-aftermarket-wheel-thread.45113/

That link shows 7/16" studs. But we need 5/8"... NAPA # 641-3141 (Post 28 ) is equivalent to GM #15725051. Some dimensions and vehicle application can be seen here... Those are not the same as the stock FMTV wheel studs, but may eventually fit - after some grinding. (I'm not sure; never done...

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/quick-question-th400-pressure-cooling-line.149707/#post-2224702

https://otrwheel.com/otr-blog/longs-wheel-now-otr/

This is the correct method (click on the link where it says youtube) Of course I'm cheap and would never buy such a tool. Instead, I use something homemade (made out of sheet-metal and a piece of 1/4" insulating foam rubber) - which works just as nicely....

Not the first time this happens.... https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/deuce-crank-pulley-wobble-loose.194444/post-2272577