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Ah, good so! Just spotted its rack there (well hidden in the eye of the boot...)

........ while risking an arm, or worse!?:shock: I'm tempted to photoshop your picture to make it look right - by placing a jack stand right there where that bottle jack is. SAFETY FIRST, everyone...!!

You may want to take a look at the attached PDF file... Find exactly that diagram (page 41)... and a lot more info (I mean everything!) about these pumps.

Glad to hear you found it! Some call it good luck - I prefer terms like "Divine Intervention".... ;) Good job, so far. Keep it up!

Eventually... but I would have to try that to confirm. If you are lucky enough, that plunger was already MIA, after a previous IP transplant...(?) It would still work without it, just not as designed. Here is a description from AM-General Co., of what that plunger & spring actually does:

The dowel pin is right there (and it should stay there - do not remove...!) But the question is: where is the plunger? (I'm sure Cucvrus was referring to that part...) From your pics I can see it's missing already, so where did you drop it - and possibly the spring, too...? :???:

It is my understanding that all pumps come with a mark. At least I have never seen one without it...

Thinking is good for the brain..... but hey, it's all in the books already - if you wanted to save those grey cells for something trickier... :giggle:

It is stronger (= stiffer) mainly because it has less windings. I would use them only if changing all six - or all 4 at least, on the rears - before hitting the road again.

Good info, there! According to that chart- and being that our spindles are 16 TPI, and nuts being locked with a "tang type washer", that would be a 1/4 turn final back off for the adjusting nut and the outer (jam)nut torqued to 200-275 lb*ft. Of course that all depends on how much play there...

One option would be United States of Freight, if it was me... This post has their contact info.

If you haven't done so already, you still need to inspect your master cylinder, a) if its piston does return freely all the way back to its stop, b) if the pushrod has just a bit of play at least, after fully releasing the pedal, c) if the tiny hole inside the MC reservoir (called bypass- or...

TM 9-2320-260-34-1 (Jul 1994), 9-3. TRANSFER REPLACEMENT

All good but next time don't be afraid of adding just a thin film of a "modern" (anaerobic) sealant like Loctite 515, or better 518, to either one of the two surfaces. That alone is what is being used today on all engine components, in between machined surfaces, replacing the classic...

Hey, always happy to lend a hand... I'm a big fan of such "builds" - and not buying stuff but making it myself...! ;) OK, when the moment comes I'll show you a trick to do this without actually turning the whole thing.

Look more....: D61 rear axles do exist; Ford 3/4ton of the 80s had them and most were 3.5" tubes (which is what the D70s have). Sure thing; that's what I would do. It shouldn't be too difficult to weld a #5/8" flange to the end of the tube and then machine it to be able to bolt-on a M37 front...

Interesting project! Now, what if...... you went with a D60 rear axle with 35-spline shafts, instead? Not only would it be stronger than stock; it also allows a ratio as low as 3.33:1 - which is just 5% slower than your (correctly) calculated 3.18:1 - but could easily be compensated with a 21in...

Bump! Anyone in N-KS ...?

Please note that this thread is about beadlocks, not the runflat inserts. You seem to be confusing both......? What you need in the civilian world are beadlocks. Installing- or removing a beadlock(band) is child's play compared to the runflats. It does not require any force or special tools...

Not sure... have seen only one, so far and it has a part# 12301119. (It came inside an FMTV tire/wheel, so someone had replaced the original Hutchinson metal band (# T1001)