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Unlike the solid rubber runflats these "rubber band-type" beadlocks can be installed with bare hands and no tools required. Good lubrication (with tire soap) helps a lot.

You might want to review that info because it is not correct. And BTW, if a yoke is worn - or in this case the saddles wallowed-out - it needs to be replaced! A U-joint with Ø 1.188" bearings will never fit into a yoke made for Ø 1.125" bearings, no matter how badly worn-out it was. For what it...

That's correct since those two bolts are 7/16-20 x 3/4". OK, you mean the bracket bolts for the PTO control lever... Let me help you with this, and for future searches: In the parts TM 9-2320-361-34P, Fig.237, Item #37 it shows a bolt with a part number AN7-5A, which has the NSN...

Yup, they are too narrow for the A3's 20x11" wheels

Member @gimpyrobb aka Gimpy used to have/sell parts for these IPs. Maybe you are lucky there.

Those will work for 395s, as well.

... and if you need a new T-C, contact Gimpy (member @gimpyrobb).

Below are some dimensions from when I went through all this...

Let me correct that... The pilot diameter of the input shaft is 0.7465-0.7475 inches, for a new part. And it takes a pilot bearing sleeve (NSN 3120-00-057-4506, part# 10935441) with a 0.7520 - 0.7530 inches ID; 1.0030 - 1.0040 inches OD and a length of 1.1800 - 1.2000 inches.

15° between cargo bed (box) and cab seems a bit exaggerated... Even if photos do deform things, if you analyse the one you posted - which already looks very extreme - it still is less than half that angle.

Why not? If he was a Chung Ju-yung (*) - type of person, he probably did it better- and for a fraction of the cost, with no previous experience... ;-) -------------------------------- (*) = A brilliant mind and strong will: founder of Hyundai Group and much more....!

Ha-ha... you are not alone, there! Annoying (and not only for the driver!) sure is the exact right term, especially being all stock, without a muffler added to that stack.

In my experience both, NSK and NTN make 1st class bearings, in Japan. (Koyo, I'm not so sure....) And when it comes to tapered roller bearings, they are usually half the price of the US-made Timkens and do last the same... (And we do avoid the Chinese/Brazilian/etc. Timkens, even if they are...

No way would that cause that gap...! Not the body, just the lid which holds the dial mechanism in place. If you didn't touch those 8 screws, then they either stretched- or worse, ripped out of their threaded holes, due to that close encounter... The dial disc went beyond its normal stop...

That's a std 12-bolt HMMWV wheel, re-centered.

Cheap is good! And no torque correction needed is even better.... like this one.

If I had to solve this I would start with a 20x9" 1-pc wheel (like this one) or even better just the bare rim (shell) if available, and then use stock deuce centers, welded-in more or less the way my drawing shows. Minimum spacing for the 12.00R20s is 14 inches. Being that you would never come...

Done.

Not exactly.... prob meant to say the rear winch? AFAIK, the front winch on all M809-series trucks is (mechanically) powered by a PTO, out of the transmission. Single output, in case of the M816 as well as all other variants, except M817 and M820A2. These two models have the dual output...

... And to have it all handy, and to knowing what goes where, here are the terminal numbers & designations....