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Not 100% sure, but those appear to be fragments of bearing shields and cages. I guess that one at least of your input shaft bearings is falling apart. See the diagram in this post... Guess it's time to disassemble and repair. Or maybe find another T-case, somewhere near? Anyway, I foresee lots...

The Goodyear MV/T is a better sand tire; not so much in mud. And on the highway the MV/T is less noisy than the XZL, but... in a Deuce it's pretty loud, anyway.

That, yes! But in order to help it "wiggling" enough... take a 12# hammer (and a big punch or equivalent) and give it some good blows to the hub flange; the area in between the studs. Recommend covering the studs with pieces of pipe or something, just in case it's a little too windy that day...;-)

Pretty sure it does...! Outstanding reply post & great contribution!(y)

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/diy-tire-balancing.162876/post-2161304

Welcome! You are at the right place. There simply is no better website on the whole Internet, about Deuces and MVs in general.

Yes, it works well - if the operator knows what he's doing... Typical equipment for a smaller tire shop that handles all kind of vehicles, all day long. But for a hobbyist who does 6 - 10 tires per year? No thanks, 5.5K would be way too rich for my blood...! I get good results balancing any...

Originally an M246, it seems. Olive Drab has a complete description of it, here...

123.8mm (4.874")

Thread moved.

First get underneath with a pry-bar and check for loose mounts. Then grab the TC input shaft and check for any play. That's only a temporary fix, at best... Read this thread: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/transfer-case-slips-to-neutral-when-shifting.97455/

Two inches is a lot! From factory there is a bit of "give" - but not so much really - between the 4 bolts attaching the steering gear to the frame and the corresponding holes. 1/2- 3/4" up on the dash-bracket is all I would possibly go. For anything more than that, the holes in the frame &...

No reason really, since the trucks are NOT nuclear (powered...) :giggle: Thread moved...

I was lucky enough to get to see one of these beauties in the Imperial War Museum in Duxford, UK. (... and most likely in running condition, judged by the muddy tires)

Here is one thread: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/lock-out-on-forward-rear-axle-to-prevent-drive-line-bind.133221/

If you are referring to the running/parking lights not working when the main switch is in the " Service Drive" position, that's just how it comes wired from factory. It's either headlights OR running lights. This post shows what to do to have them working simultaneously. Of course the same also...

Not so. If you just wanted a slightly bigger tire (and about 5% higher top speed) you can always use your stock wheels, go up to the next size bias ply NDCC 11.00-20s - or even a more modern radial type (size 11.00R20) - and still run them dual on the rear axles.

In case of doubt just put a bit of your (known) DOT 5 and about as much of the (unknown) fluid coming out of the bleeder, in a clear glass cup. If both portions readily mixed after just stirring a bit you are good to continue. Try that same with any ethyl-glycol based fluid (like DOT 3 & 4) and...

You may be referring to the wheels used on the M34; M47; V17A & V18A trucks? All those came with single 11.00-20 tires/wheels from factory. The difference in the wheel design (M34 vs. M35) can be seen in this post...

Only the good ones are wanted, above......!