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Yeah, talk about different ways to skin the cat ... the mich, actually. (I like your KISS system! Can I borough your tractor for a while...?:smile:) I tried all kind of grinding discs before I found that actual cutting (with a carbide-tipped saw blade) goes much faster. But then you need...

No, the other way around! You have to keep spinning the input until the dog clutch can catch again. Then you'll have a 29:1 gear ratio working in your favor, in order to turn that drum. (Should be fairly easy, with your super-adapter and a ratchet wrench...;)) Do just like @doghead explained...

I do that with the old lathe and some home-made fixtures. Tires all come out nice and perfectly round (by default of course...) and size/weight is not a problem - but rubber saw dust everywhere, that is... :) I just uploaded a short video, here...

Most likely the dog clutch was just barely engaged and then slipped out, after just a little movement. Continue turning the input shaft and keep trying (to re-engage the clutch)

TMs are written by common mortals and are not perfect. That's why you find this at the end of each book: BTW, I wonder if anyone here ever reported anything wrong and if so, then got a reply....? Yeah, someone was obviously "very distracted" while writing how to install 2nd gear on the...

Edited and moved...

That...! There must have been something else because if it was only the parking brake that got stuck or frozen, that may not allow you to back-up the truck one inch, but you could still shift the transmission into any gear, while the engine is running and clutch depressed. This is what the OP...

:ditto:

First may be true; second, not. Check out this post (in the dump-conversion compilation thread)... Some of the pictures there showing the reinforcements added to the bed sub-frame. (successfully tested, up to almost 10 tons...!) Adding two more pics, of that building process: All that...

Both versions have the exact same Ø 2.00" tubing. Fact is that even with all original parts some people had clearance issues. Read this older thread... There are several suggestions there, as what to check and how to possibly solve the problem.

Here it is: https://www.ebay.com/itm/5X614-Meritor-Felt-Washer-5310-00-693-0623-7521646-/303507346704 (Note: Rules have changed and posting eBay links is allowed, now.)

Yes.

Sure! (just couldn't find where I had posted it, so here it goes again.....) Before and after.... Close-up view....

FWIW, total shift shaft travel is 2-1/4". Maybe add 1/32" at each end, with the top cover off. To the vid: that IS a bit too much play...! Most likely it froze to the shaft, at one time. Parts may look like the ones pictured in this post...

Maybe not "normal", but it still works the same and it still doesn't explain your issue. For a reason (which I never understood) the TMs call for three washers on each bolt, and all 3 stacked against the lock plate: But I don't think these washers are acting as shims there, from what can be...

Good, absolutely! I've seen that same (2-3 fork) with much more wear and still working perfectly. But how about your shift plate; how does it look? Make sure it isn't buckled. Post pics if in doubt. Also, in your PM you said your Spicer recently has started being difficult getting it into...

Good luck with that. I have tried many tricks already; found no way yet to get anything done good enough, with the stem still installed in place... First, that referred smooth end measures Ø 8.0mm but you want it to be about Ø 7.6mm in order to get your tire tool to grab and start threading...

Should be a 3/8"-32 UNEF thread. (at least that's what you find on the Haltec AMG-4 wheel valve which comes on the std FMTV steel wheel.) This is the only thing I found, that comes close to eventually serve as a "cap" - provided it's deep enough (?) What I usually do with those odd size valve...

Ah good, that should be much easier to fix.

No way that rubber seal can come out. But it can dry rot, or the sealing surface got too rough. I just posted that (funny looking) close up picture because one can see that little bit of excess sealant there, that had squeezed out after the joint was tightened.