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Yes, I've done that several times, for several reasons, including the replacing of the TPS. The procedure, for both WTEC2 and WTEC3, are here in my "Common Fix" document in my signature.
I'm not sure I followed that. Yes, mine is a WTEC2. It shifts up into 7th very reliably at 60-62MPH (with 3.07:1 gears), and back down into 6th at that same speed range.
Yeah, I've recalibrated it. Even got a new Throttle Position Sensor. Mine is one of the harder-shifting trucks, which only makes the shifting more annoying.
Not disagreeing with this, however, one thing that is overlooked is that it's not just as simple as that. People need to look at the transmission shift points, and what speed ranges are for each gear. Now that I run the 3.07:1 gears, I find that my LMTV cruises nicely at 65MPH on the highway...
You're arguing that nobody intended these trucks to go that fast, and they aren't rated to, so it isn't safe, but some versions were explicitly designed to go that fast, and had tires to do it safely. I conceded that the Michelins were rated low in my previous post, so I'm not sure why you're...
It seems like a lot of that rant is predicated on the line above, but it's not correct. The Michelins are rated low, but the Goodyears are either 68MPH or 81MPH, depending on the load range you get.
It's not like they didn't have access to this information when they designed it. They geared it exactly how they wanted it geared, for their specs/needs. If it's "far from being geared correctly" for your needs, change it, but you didn't discover some mistake or anything.
But if we had 100,000 of these trucks with the soft lines, 25 years old, we'd be hearing lots of stories of "soft oil line of death" too. So it's not the technology of the line, it's just that if the line fails for any reason, you're dumping all your oil in 90 seconds.
It's debatable whether it is a "recommended upgrade". Either design can understandably have problems after 20+ years of use, so the "recommendation" is more accurately just to check, and/or replace the line if it is suspect.
To my knowledge, there are only reports of old/original steel lines...
Absolutely! If you can reuse them, and want to, do it. I haven't taken mine apart, but if they are anything like my cab mount bushings, water got in there and sat and rusted them to death. My cab mount sleeve was so rusted I couldn't even get measurements off it... it was a brittle "cake" of...
I know it was rhetorical, but it just shows why you're having such a hard time understanding/accepting the pricing. You're still mentally comparing it to a washer you buy at Home Depot for $0.50. That's fine if it is a similar size, or common size. But in a lot of these assemblies, just...
Yes, there is a pressed-in bushing and sleeve in the front eyes of the bar too, similar to what's in the eye of a leaf suspension spring.
(Ignore the red highlight... this picture was pulled quickly from my eBay posting for the lower bushings.)
Automotive companies, and any kind of mass-production manufacturer really. To them, when they are going to make tens (or hundreds) of thousands, they'll just have a custom metal stamping die made to create the perfect washer they need, at a similar price to buying off the shelf washers.
You...
The upper bushings are smaller, and will require less material (and cost). Getting custom machined/lasered washers and spacers is another story, especially in small quantities (e.g. 100).
It's just that every few months, another new member comes in and starts this same discussion, about any number of parts that are "too expensive". For all the talk, there are few/no cheap solutions of equal quality found.
For the bushings specifically, there are so many costs that go into doing...
I usually bite my tongue when I see these posts. If you think it should be done cheaper, I'd like to see you try. I practically give mine away, and they still aren't as cheap as I'd like. And the cost of the materials just keeps going up.
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