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I make the lowers, but not the uppers yet. I have all the measurements to make the uppers, but just haven't made a mold for them. Since they're smaller, I should be able to make a mold that creates a few of them at once.

The correct oil is from aircraft, and is colored red. So this is expected. This is true, because for the hydraulics it's a piece of cake to lift that much weight, even at a disadvantage.

Unrelated to your problem, but there is supposed to be a safety chain too. The spare tire has the black ratchet strap thing, and a safety chain that goes through the wheel. I just mention it, in case yours doesn't have one, and you didn't know you were missing it.

I think there's [at least] one in the cylinder too. Otherwise, if you blew a line, it couldn't save you. So there has to be something in the cylinder itself.

Nice! More 3D printer people coming in.

Nighttime Christmas parade time here in Florida!

They aren't canvas. They're a rubberized/plasticized material, like a white water raft is made out of.

Does paint even stick to them? Seems like it would just flake off, from all the flexing.

The default state of the fan is engaged. When the coolant switch is below the temp (215°?), it closes the circuit, engages the air solenoid, and air disengages the fan clutch. There is more info about it in the Common Issues & Fixes document, here in my signature links...

LMTVs/MTVs are more nimble than people think. If you compare the smallest box that an MTV and a Chevy Silverado fit into, the length and width aren't that different. One of the biggest issues is the height, depending on where you're going, and I've spent many hours cutting down branches and...

Are you going to have any of the replacement metal sleeves made? Mine were almost completely rusted through.

I was mistaken before, and corrected my post. 15W-40 will be what you want. I've found good deals on synthetic 15W-40 at Sam's Club, and Costco / BJ's may have something similar. But if your fluid was red, don't you want the ATF?

ATF is red, and oil is clear. The original fluid is 15W-40. EDIT: Checked the TM 9-2320-365-10, F-3, and it's 15W-40 above 40°F, and straight SAE-10 from 40°F down to -15°F.

Wow, I thought people already had these in hand months ago, and was coming to see how they turned out.

You're just overthinking this. We want something that provides easy access, and is easy to measure from. Just drilling holes in a regular hub cover is neither of those (and borderline "impossible to use"). Being able to measure it directly avoids indirect measurements and math, which add...

3D printed one...

It's a lot easier to see what you're doing, and reach in there, if the whole thing is open. I suppose you could try to figure out what the minimum access you need is, but it seems like a rather pointless project. All you're trying to do is hold the spider in place, while you take measurements...

Then yeah, a 10230. That's the same cap, in 16PSI. My truck had a 13PSI cap on it, when I got it from the Army (I kept the old one), so that's what I replaced it with. https://www.amazon.com/Stant-10230-Radiator-Cap/dp/B000B8LKVY/

The Stant crossover part number is 10229 (and is in my spreadsheet, here in my signature). It's a pretty readily available cap.

With the 3.07:1 gears it will only do 72MPH, but it's fine doing that, if you have the Goodyear tires. 60MPH is at high RPM in the 6th gear, so you don't want to do that any more than you want to run at 72MPH, really. I find that 65MPH is a really nice cruising speed, low into the 7th gear RPM...