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One of the axle seals is two pieces, and people have accidentally left one part of it installed while replacing it. Then it damages the new seal, or prevents it from installing correctly/completely. Maybe that?
It's not so much that they were unobtanium, but rather that surplus parts are often either feast or famine. These were up for sale on eBay for years, with the prices dropping and dropping, and got as low as $150+shipping. The buyer probably bought an entire lot of them at auction. Then, once...
In thinking about it further, I may just be doing the press-and-release interpretation because old '70s carbureted engines needed that press-and-release to reset the choke before starting. Obviously that doesn't apply the same here.
I interpret it as push it and release it, then start. But that's why I included the references in parentheses, in case you want to read it yourself. That procedure I wrote in created by stitching together several different parts of the puzzle, from different places... otherwise it's hard to...
While I agree that a bunch of the rules around here are draconian, this is ultimately a huge part of the reason I started my own spreadsheet. I didn't want to be at the mercy of the internet for it suddenly disappearing. I encourage people to save a duplicate of mine as well, though I don't...
I believe the complete kit included replacement wiring that is heavier duty, to handle the increased amperage, as well as possibly other higher-rated components (e.g. polarity box?).
The cables are old and corroded inside, so they just don't move smoothly. @Suprman suggested filling the rubber boot with silicone oil and gently using air pressure to force the oil down through the jacket. I tried that, but couldn't get it to work. You may have better luck.
It's totally doable, and needing several takes some of the sting out of the cost, though I recommend against the "squish mold" approach. The squishing action means you are always putting stress on the mold and casting, resulting it parts that are often deformed, as well as trapping bubbles...
Yes, you can. I make the sway bar bushings that way. However, it's not cheap or easy. You have to buy a bushing to get measurements (I don't cast directly from an OEM one, because both the mold silicone and polyurethane castings shrink, so you have to compensate), as well as get a vacuum...
The bushings aren't made of rubber - they are polyurethane. Unfortunately there isn't much you can do for them. The polymers break down over time, and the material degrades. The way the bushings are used, with a lot of weight squeezing the bushing and requiring it to have a lot of tensile...
It's not the zerks themselves. I took every one of them off my truck, and every one of them flowed grease freely. It's the 20+ year old crusty grease stuck inside the hollow bolt and the passageways to the outside.
The truck uses 3 different types of zerks, and they are listed here in my...
There is more info about it in my Common Fixes document here in my signature. I used the all the methods above, including the tool that you hammer (filled with Kroil), and got most of them to take grease (still have a couple that won't).
When you take the grease fitting off, make sure to use...
Cheaper to drive it, unless something breaks! It's a huge gamble, and not one I recommend... transport it, until you have had a chance to work on it and know what is wrong with it. When a motor pool unit gets the word to get rid of a truck, they go pick that problem truck at the back of the...
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