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Got it, so a question on that, is there anyway to take the drag link off the steering arm without having to take off the steering arm or do I have to get the steering arm off as well?

Question, them 4 wedges, where are they? Is that part suppose to be the 4 threads on the steering arm?

The cotter pin to the threads under the drag link had broke but I still got the nut off. I wouldn't think this the reason the drag link isn't coming off

Okay so I managed to get the Pitmen arm off with a puller but still can't get the drag link off, its somehow magically just stuck on. Is there any puller tool for it?

So I'm tyring to remove my drag link and pitmen arm so I can install the power steering kit, I ran into one issues, both of them are stuck on. I took off all the bolts and still can't get it to come off. It only just turn a little. Am I'm missing something if not, do anyone have any tips?

So I started working on installing power steering in the m35a2, I currently have the fender off and going to be taking out the steering box and shaft as well. Is there anything specific that I should check or change while I already got the fender off and everything is very accessible?

Well, I guess I'm going to be changing that back to the original soon

I heard that it can possibly cause issues but never heard of what issues they can cause

It took me a little while to find the picture, but this is what was installed in my m35a2 before I got it, I still have it and find it pretty easy to use

I've seen all kinds of swaps with the M35 talked about for the engine and trans, but the one thing I can't find anything on or if anyone did this is an eaton 6 or 7 speed swap. It seems like it'll be the best transmission for the deuce if you like a standard. All the forward gears on them are...

I know it's an old dead thread, but I finally got back to this. I used a torch and an iron mallet and was able to straighten it within 10 mins

Another thing I can tell by is the doors, mirrors, and with the passenger wagon tops from the rear

Got it, yea I think you're right, another guess is that it could've knocked the connector back some and gave it a poor connection

Today I decided to power wash the radiator since I never cleaned it good since I got it & have yet to install my new aluminum one, I also washed the engine down as well, after that I went to drive it back and I notice about 4 miles later, the temp gauge was showing at almost 240 and the fan...

Make sure all of your hoses are tight and not dry rotted. I had a leak at the fuel filter, which was due to a loose line, all I had to do was tighten it.

I was successful in registering my humvee in vermont last year and my BRDM 2 this year. The only thing they had wrote me back was for export proof on the BRDM and I had underpaid the fees.

Yep, you guys right, I tried today. I have the MRAP rims but I was trying to avoid the work on doing the dismounting.

interesting, Im going to check that tomorrow morning

Another question comes to mind, can just the front lip piece be changed from the LMTV wheel to the MRAP or is them outside bolts a different pattern too?

A better look at the 2 different wheels, they seem pretty closely identical in terms of where the studs are. I'm going to check tomorrow and see why I couldn't get the adapter plate to fit on the LMTV one. Maybe because I was trying to put the plate on the inside of the wheel instead of the outside?