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if its a charging problem have them look at the Alternator for a Name tag to see what model it has. if it is a Niehoff they have troubleshooting guides for this models on their website

the pin-outs on the N3211 and the N3106 are the same so Pin A is Field -, Pin B is Phase, Pin C Ground(B-),Pin D is B+(battery positive), the Filed coil on most C. E. Niehoff are about the same value, they are all brushless so its just a coil of wire you are testing. so you field coil looks ok...

the only way to see if there are different options in VR would be from the Installation Guide or Troubleshooting guide of the Alternator Model, if there are different model VRs they Should be listed there. but for N1511 there was only the N3207. also as a side note on some Niehoff alternators...

what you have is a N1225 alternator, here is a link to the installation instructions and troubleshooting guide in the troubleshooting guide you will find a wiring diagram as if it was in a vehicle simulate this with a set of batteries, and jump the IGN terminal with 24v and spin the alternator...

Its an Alternator in most generic terms, Military just like to keep the old name of Generator, the static that radios pick up is the AC "leakage" pass the didoes of the Alternator. the military purpose built units generally have capacitors/ special diodes to cut down the "leakage". as to OP if...

if it is a Niehoff model they have a list of distributors on the right side of their website. there appears to be two in Ohio you could call them and see if they can test them.

ok so another thought have you tried Static Testing the LBCD? http://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG53B_uid1252012258102.pdf this requires you remove the terminals from it but it could be that the LBCD is disconnecting the batteries and its internal capacitors are bad and the...

what was the Ohms reading of the Field Coil Pin A to D? also un plug the Regulator and then start the truck and see if the voltage climbs if so you may have a shorted field coil.

you have a READ light on the 14V side. so if it is Red then that signals overvoltage what is the Voltage on your 14Volt Terminal on the alternator? double check that number and if possible check each battery to see if one is higher than the other. another test would be to swap the top and bottom...

Farmitall is on the right path, its common on Fire trucks for their radios to get noise from alternator AC ripple (generally the radio it self doesn't have enough input protection and picks up this electrical noise). what size Alternator do you have? If you have a digital multi-meter set it to...

for the dual voltage alternators don't run the loads directly off the alternator studs, run a cable from the alternator to the battery and then from the battery to the loads. if you want you can use the lower of the two 24v batteries as the 12v source. that is the way the original setups are...

here are the links to the Troubleshooting guides for the N1509 and N2003 your voltage numbers are low, also try checking the voltage of each battery individually to make sure one isn't pulling the rest down. http://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG0014D_uid12172009224052.pdf...

check the wires going into to see if system voltage is getting there, you can also see with your old gauge by looking up its wire schematic can just making jumper leads to a battery to see if it'll "work"

Not Arduino but yes all the new voltage regulators use solid state electronics to control things ....also adds to the cost of the things. And for why not just tap the batteries......see original HMMWV all 28v...then they got an electronic transmission (14v) taped rear battery and found that it...

Yes LBCD ....N2003 Load Battery Control Device........the Box with 4 threaded terminals on top that wires between batteries and vehicle loads. I forget sometimes to fully label when using abbreviations.

Yes the field coil runs on 28v so the regulator just powers that, for the 14 they just cut the output to convert down the 14v for the other side. As to price well it is a military specific part and that tends to add cost. And while you could open the thing and see how she runs if you get anyone...

no the voltage would be close as the AC terminal is 1/2 system voltage (on 28V base that's 14V) but the output is an AC voltage not a DC voltage like the 12v terminal is so the LBCD might miss read it.

it can happen if he didn't run a wire to the AC line of the LBCD, on the original setup the AC terminal of the ALT was sent to the LBCD and the LBCD would send out the signal to turn On/Off dash warning light. the LBCD was built by C.E.Niehoff to work together with the original Alts. the dash...

Yes the alt won't power up unless its got a good 24v at the B+ terminals and also on the IGN terminal on the regulator(the stud with the red plastic generally). if your worried your alt is bad and want to troubleshoot it and you have the C.E.Niehoff units go to their website click "Service and...

the 14V that is on the Regulators is limited to 50 amps Or should be limited basically it can give more but then you run the risk of overheating the thing). the 14v studs on the Alts them selves outputs are based on 28v load and are specific to each unit, some give more some give less.